Ha-Lu-Lujiah!

We had the joy of celebrating my mum's birthday (who happened to be in town this week for a visit with her closest friends) last night at probably one of my favourite places to eat in Perth - Ha Lu - a Japanese izakaya style restaurant. As usual, I over-ordered and over-indulged. But everything was so perfectly executed that what seemed like a constant flow of beautifully presented clean tasting dishes was a true joy. Highlights included the kakuni pictured above (uber tender stewed pork belly) and the warm japanese salad with roasted vegetables.

We also ordered an interesting twist on the very homely dish of nikujaga (typically a hot pot of sliced beef onion and potatoes). Instead of the traditional simmered dish, Ha Lu has a revamped version that takes the form of a crispy creamy potato dumpling stuffed with sliced beef and topped with sliced onions and a soy dashi broth that is poured at the table.

The tuna and poached onsen style egg was a delicious combination of flavours and textures with tender sashimi tuna, crispy wanton crisps and and a creamy poached egg.

The wagyu beef tataki here is brilliant - melt in your mouth slivers of wagyu fillet served with seasonal root vegetables and an addictive ponzu sauce. The other beef dish ordered however was the only disappointment of the night. Diced wagyu beef steak with yuzu kosho pepper whilst sounding unbelievable on the menu, was overcooked and dry - probably due to the cubes being diced too small and a real letdown to an otherwise flawless meal.

Nevertheless - Ha Lu continues to be probably the best Japanese restaurant to eat in town. I left the restaurant content, very full, and looking forward to my next visit to sample new dishes introduced to the menu (given I had pretty much ordered everything in one seating).

Ha Lu
Shop4 / 401 Oxford Street, Mt Hawthorn

Putting the Extra in Ordinary...

I recently blogged about a new ramen bar in Northbridge, Perth. And whilst I was not overly impressed with the broth that was served with their homemade noodles - I was more than addicted to the toppings that came with each bowl - most especially the roast pork or chashu. Literally melt in your mouth pork belly that has been braised to perfection in a very delicious concotion of what is most likely soy sauce, sake, mirin, sugar and ginger - really special stuff.

And so, in a stroke of genius (at least I like to think so), I visted Arigataya ramen again and ordered a bowl of japanese curry rice (kare raisu) - with... wait for it, the aforementioned roast pork as a topping.

The curry here on its own was very generic and unfortunately made from a packet roux that tasted all too familiar (we rely on this stuff at home when we're too lazy or time pressed to whip a dinner up). However, paired with the delightfully tasty roast pork - this was one very satisfying lunch - and cheap too!

Just goes to show... sometimes the ordinary just needs a dose of something extra to make it oh so special...

Arigataya Ramen
Roe Street
Northbridge, Perth

Go Go Gozen!

M and I stumbled upon a brilliant spot for lunch after a morning of shopping in Subiaco on the weekend. We were both ravenous at this stage and were desperately hoping that Satsuki, a relatively newcomer to the area, was going to be a winner.

And that it was... this little Japanese restaurant hit all the right notes for our post shopping lunch... we started off with the tuna oshi sushi, which is a specialty here. Moulded in a rectangular box shape and cut into cubes, our entree was a delicious combination of seasoned tuna (no need for soy sauce or wasabi on the side here) topped with tobiko and rested on sushi rice sandwiching aonori seaweed. This was as delicious as it was beautiful and gave us a good sign of things to come.

For the mains we each had a gozen bento lunchbox. M opted for an extremely well executed tori karaage which was delightfully crispy on the outside and succulent marinated chicken on the inside. My braised pork belly kakuni was a joy to eat - melt in your mouth pork belly with strong hints of ginger and soya sauce... served with a hard boiled egg braised in the same seasonings.

M could not resist the small but very appealing dessert menu here... and so we finished off our meal with a green tea scented creme brulee. Whilst I found the green tea element of the menu description lacking, this was nonetheless a very nice dessert. The custard was creamy and not overly sweet which was nicely balanced the attractively burnt sugar topping dotted with green tea powder.

Satsuki does a more upmarket menu for dinner which we were both keen to try after having sampled its simple but well executed lunch menu. M and I both love good Japanese food - and in the case of Satsuki, I think we may have just fallen in love.

When quick is good

Its been a while since my last post and yes... its because I have returned to full time work and have rejoined the days of waking up earlier than I would care to and going home later than I would like... but I am grateful. It does feel strange to suddenly have routine again in my life and I'm learning that time becomes more of a valuable commodity when you have less of it to call your own.

Instead of taking the time to cook meals you would otherwise love to create during the week, sometimes quick bites that can be whipped together in minutes with minimal fuss are irreplaceable.

So it was with great excitement that I came across Momoya Gohandesuyo, a seaweed kelp paste I found in a Japanese specialty shop. Traditionally eaten with steamed rice, I started experimenting with this very tasy condiment and was pleasantly surprised at the results.

Mix a tablespoon of seaweed paste with a dollop of butter into freshly cooked spaghetti or angelhair and top with finely diced cherry tomatoes and chives... Incredibly simple but surprisingly tasty. The mixture is also darn good folded with butter through freshly cooked short grain rice and topped with a crispy fried egg...

Sigh... if only all fast food could taste this good.

Cheek to Cheek

Heaven… I’m in heaven. I’ve finally found a tonkotsu ramen in Singapore that reminds me of Ichiran ramen which I have been raving about since my trip to Fukuoka late last year.

Santouka ramen is located in Central shopping centre, a Japanese themed mall filled with Japanese eateries serving everything from yoshoku to tonkatsu. Hailing from Hokkaido, Santouka is reknowned for this region’s version of tonkotsu ramen. And it is good – the broth here is rich, creamy, complex and simply soul warming. So rich and intensely flavoured in fact that it definitely isn’t one for the faint hearted. And whilst I still think that Hakata still makes the best pork bone broth, the version here is pure bliss.

The star of the show here however is the sliced meat to accompany your noodles. Unlike the normal char shiu you get in other establishments, Santouka uses toroniku (braised pork cheeks) as the accompaniment. I was impressed with the pork belly used at Ichiran – but was blown away by Santouka’s version. Melt in your mouth, so beautifully marbled and tender – this luxurious part of the porcine was oh so good.

What makes it all the more special is the limited qualities of this prized meat available (each pig has 200 to 300 grams worth) which limits sales to 60 servings per day – a real treat.

The noodles here are competent and done Asahikawa style which are thicker than Hakata ramen and slightly curly. They were cooked firm to the bite as they should be - but I felt lacked the delicious texture that made Ichiran so special. The gyoza served here was also competent but I still much prefer the version served at that other Fukuoka ramen icon, Ippudo, for its crisp texture and juicy fillings.

Nevertheless – I’m not complaining – a great broth, outrageously good char shiu, well cooked noodles… and most importantly, a reminder of what heaven tastes like without having to buy a plane ticket to Japan. A definite must try.

Ramen Santouka

6 Eu Tong Sen St

#02-76, The Central

Looking behind the cover

Another one of my favourite haunts in Perth is Jun, a yakitori and kushiyaki specialist tucked away in a dark alley of the unpopular end of Hay Street. This part of town is unattractive, dreary and in desperate need of a face lift.

Jun at first glance can be quite intimidating - hidden downstairs of a dark alleyway with its doors splattered with random graffiti, you wouldn't walk in here unless you have been told of what lies beneath or have tasted its offerings yourself.

I am a big fan of the yakitori here, particularly the sunagimo (chicken giblets), nankotsu (chicken cartilage) and tebasaki (chicken wings). All perfectly grilled and seasoned with your choice of shio (salt) or tare (teriyaki) glaze.

Jun also moves into izakaya territory with its extensive menu which extends beyond yakitori. They also have a daily specials menu that highlights seasonal items, something I think is really cool. On the day we visited, we had a deliciously fruity and succulent kumato (Japanese black tomato), served simply sliced with sea salt and a mayonnaise dipping sauce. The highlight for me was tori sasami shiso maki furai, a perfectly crispy deep fried dish of crumbed chicken tenderloin wrapped in shiso leaves. So good.

We also had a few other interesting deep fried dishes, including tako karaage oroshi ponzu (deep fried octopus in ponzu sauce) and sunagimo karaage (deep fried marinated chicken giblets). All extremely tasty paired with icy cold Sapporo beer. But what I always love finishing the meal off with here is an order of yaki onigiri chazuke, a crispy grilled japanese rice ball topped with salmon flakes in a heartwarming broth of dashi and toasted sesame seeds.

Jun is a great place to come to for drinks (BYO and there's a bottle shop just a few shops down) with stunning food at reasonable prices. Its particularly popular with the local Japanese business community, work mates who come together after a long week of work to have a good time.

You'd be forgiven for not realising that there's such a gem of a restaurant in this part of town... but you won't forgive yourself for not checking Jun out for yourselves once you have.

Jun Izakaya

568(B1) Hay St. Perth 6000
Phone: (08)9221-3339

Kiri Japanese Restaurant

I had the pleasure of celebrating my birthday recently at Kiri Japanese Restaurant in Perth (yes… I’m back after a 9 month separation from my adopted home). I must disclose at this point however that I am not completely impartial in this review… you see - the owner and chef of this tiny little eatery in Shenton Park, Taka, is a friend through my sister.

Taka and his charming wife, Noriko, started Kiri out of sheer passion and commitment, after having come to Australia to provide for an education for their two little (and unbelievably cute) daughters. Having started out working at run of the mill “Westernised” Japanese restaurants, this hardworking couple ventured into their own catering business and eventually found the perfect spot to call their own. And their efforts have paid off – Kiri is hugely popular and has become a rising star in the very limited choice of good Japanese restaurants in Perth.

A trained kaiseki chef, Taka will gladly whip up the Japanese equivalent of a degustation menu for you if you book 3 days in advance. Given that we didn't have enough time to make a booking as we had just arrived in Perth, we instead left it to Taka to cook up dishes from his ala carte menu and to only stop when when we had our fill. And so... 13 dishes later, we finished our dinner completely stuffed but very happy.

Amongst the highlights were the nasu dengaku (grilled eggplant with miso sauce), a beautifully presented platter of fresh sashimi and the grilled wagyu fillet with a ponzu dipping sauce.

Kiri is a fine little restaurant that will go far. I for one am really happy that Taka and Noriko are finally reaping the rewards from their commitment and passion. Their journey has been tough but theirs is a lesson of hard work at something they believe in... and as far as becoming wiser with age, that's one lesson I hope to be reminded of at all my birthdays.

Miyajima: Thoughtful dining

Miyajima is an island off Hiroshima and is well known for its incredible autumn colours in November. This means hordes of tourists in the daytime who come to take in the amazing colours of red, orange and yellow splashed across the palette of this beautiful island.

We were fortunate enough to stay the night at Iwaso, the oldest and most highly regarded ryokan on the island - which meant that we were able to experience this picturesque place in all its tranquility when night fell. It also meant that we were treated to the most incredible kaiseki dinner at the ryokan in our own private dining room.

This meal was simply stunning and a perfect example of what a great kaiseki meal means - an art that balances the tastes, textures, colours and appearances of food using only fresh seasonal ingredients to reflect the identity of the locality which it is served.

The presentation of each of the 14 or so courses made you feel like you were unwrapping a present at each course, culminating in the highlight of the meal which was an individual pot of mushroom flavoured rice that was left to boil at the table at the beginning of your meal. This was perfectly timed to be perfectly cooked when you reached the end of your courses.

Dining the kaiseki way really awakens you to an appreciation of ingredients and the thought that the chef puts into ensuring that the diner enjoys a meal that satisfies all your senses... and it proves without a doubt that at the end of the day - it really is the thought that counts.

Japanese Fast Food

Japan shows the rest of the world that is dominated by golden arches and an old man in a white suit that fast food can be both delicious and good for you.

Throughout our trip travelling from Osaka down to Kyushu on the shinkansen, we were amazed at the quality of food on the go in Japan. Bento boxes, sandwiches, salads – everything was super fresh, well prepared and didn’t give leave us feeling like McGreasy, McGuilty or McQueasy.

Best of all - fast food in Japan is also beautifully presented (as is everything else in this country obsessed with perfection). Call me crazy - but I'll be happy to be labelled a fast food junkie in this amazing country...

Fukuoka Part 3: Fine Street Dining

Imagine getting the freshest and best ingredients simply prepared by your chef before your eyes… being cramped up in a little counter table on the streetside… total strangers squashed up right next to you… cold beer… loud conversations… and you basically have yatai… street dining Fukuoka style.

We had a fantastic meal at Tsukasa - a well known yatai run by the lady chef and her family of helpers. She does all the cooking which is really impressive… basically handling the grill as well as the deep fryer, she whips up the most succulent dishes to go with your choice of beverage.

Grilled beef tongue on a bed of onions was so simple… but so perfect in every way… as was the grilled shitake mushrooms seasoned only with sea salt. The mixed grilled dish of pork, squid, chicken gizzards and beef rolled with shiso leaves were great and we’ll never forget the massive local oysters that were simply barbecued and served with a wedge of lemon.

A meal at a yatai doesn’t come cheap – but if you enjoy great food in unpretentious surroundings and hearty communal eating – this is the place to come when you’re ever in Fukuoka.

Fukuoka Part 2: Ippudo

This ever popular ramen specialist has two basic versions of this dish – Akamaru (a richer tasting broth with spicy miso paste and garlic oil), and Shiromaru (a lighter tasting version). They also serve tiny bite sized gyozas which are rumoured to have been made smaller so they can be easily eaten by the dainty women of Fukuoka (which didn’t stop us from shoving these crispy morsels into our mouths like ravenous barbarians).

You get a great vibe from entering this place, loud slurping echoing from the communal dining tables and the satisfied faces all round. The tonkotsu ramen here is great – the rich creamy broth enveloping the thin and firm egg noodles cooked perfectly al dente. There is also a wide range of condiments laid out on the table to spice up your bowl of noodles to your liking. Don’t forget to order kadaema (extra noodles) if you’re still a little peckish and still have broth in your bowl.

Ippudo and Ichiran (previously blogged) are both highly regarded for tonkotsu ramen – both becoming successful chains around Japan (and recently even in New York). My personal preference? Ichiran still does it for me with their addictive special sauce and a more balanced tasting broth (Ippudo’s has a much stronger and richer taste which can get a little overwhelming).

But judge for yourself if you’re ever in Fukuoka – and have both a few times (like I did)… just to be sure.

Fukuoka Part 1: My death row meal

I’ve always wondered what final meal would be – logically it has to be something pretty special to satisfy unfulfilled desires and ignite memories of how great good food can make you feel. Well - I’m happy to say that my current pick for nourishment before walking the green mile would have to be tonkotsu ramen from Ichiran in the beautiful city of Fukuoka.

Dining at Ichiran is a pretty intimate experience. You start at the front entrance by purchasing little meal coupons of items you would like to order (ramen, extra sliced pork, boiled egg, etc) from a vending machine (another Japanese obsession). You then proceed to pick up an order sheet and proceed to your dining booth. Yes… that’s right, eating here is strictly a personal affair – you sit at an individual cubicle facing a curtain which is lifted only for your order to be served. No distractions from conversations, noisy diners or even peering wait staff… its just you – and a piping hot bowl of ramen.

You then customise your meal (eg. Strength of flavour, amount of oil in soup, texture of noodles, amount of garlic, etc) by circling accordingly on the order sheet, press the order button and await as your slip is taken into the kitchen.

What arrives is nothing short of life changing experience – an incredibly rich and creamy pork bone soup with al dente noodles and sliced belly pork, this dish put Kyushu on the noodle map of Japan. The soup here really awakens the senses and the uncontrolled loud slurping of the perfectly cooked noodles reduces you to a very primal state – savouring every moment in your little own ramen heaven. What really makes this dish is also the special sauce which has a complex chilli base and 30 other ingredients. Mindblowing.

As far as death row meals go – this one really hits the spot. How good was it? I returned every single day for the three days I was in Fukuoka for this dish. Some may think this excessive… but like they say - you only live once.

Osaka Part 3: Ordinary Osaka

What visit to Osaka can be complete without tasting two of its most famous exports – Takoyaki and Okonomiyaki. Just like the inhabitants of the city that created them, these tasty morsels are colourful, down to earth and completely inseparable from icy cold beer.

Takoyaki is best eaten piping hot – the best ones house a creamy centre with a secret combination of vegetables and fresh octopus. Smothered in either home made shoyu sauce or mayonnaise (or even both) and topped with bonito flakes – this is great snack food that was a great pick me up after a long day of shopping.

Okonomiyaki can be found all over town – we visited Chibo, a well established chain that still packs in the crowds after its many years of operation. Here the dish is prepared by a chef in front of your eyes and then transferred to your own tabletop hot plate where you add as much condiments as you like. From the more traditional kurobuta pork to mentaiko (spicy cod roe) cream okonomiyaki… you can opt to top yours off with a bucketload of negi (spring onions) and tamago (fried egg sunny side up).

You can also choose to have the traditional version which is made of batter or one with one that is made from yakisoba – the choice is completely yours… which makes this a very fun dining option.

Sizzling hot food with crispy cold beer – Osaka brings it to the very basics of a good night out… and frankly - what more could anyone ask for?