Batavia Corner

One of the things I have come to love as part of falling in love with my now wife, M, is the food of Indonesia where she was born. This was also one of the highlights for me when I visited her folks in Jakarta over a year ago - where I was introduced to some darn tasty stuff that I hadn't previously been exposed to. Indonesian food, like so many other great cuisines, is regional - and with that comes a myriad of interpretations of dishes that each region is fiercely proud of and becomes known for.

One particular dish I fell in love with in Jakarta was a beef soup in a light coconut broth - Soto Daging Betawi. And it was with much delight when M and I stumbled upon one of our now much frequented cheap eats in Perth - Batavia Corner in East Victoria Park. This humble little eatery whips up some of the best sotos (or soups which are commonly eaten with rice in Indonesia) in Perth - with all their soup bases made from scratch (which makes a world of difference in this case). Melt in your mouth beef and tendon pieces in a perfectly seasoned broth with the celery, tomatoes and just a small amount of coconut milk (fresh - not packaged I might add) - I would go so far as to say the version here is actually superior to the one I tasted in Jakarta.

Batavia Corner also does a lovely Nasi Kuning Komplit, which is tumeric scented coconut rice served with sides of fried chicken (of course), urap urap (a delicious coconut vegetable side), crispy crumbed prawns and a very addictive side called kremes (which I can only described as tasting the best crispy bits of KFC). The pempek (fried fish cake in a tangy sauce) here is passable - and is one thing that Jakarta is much more competent at - but serves to satisfy any cravings you may have of this textural dish.

All in all - Batavia is a great spot to visit to sample Indonesian fare - and until I next visit M's hometown to meet her family (and of course to eat myself silly), it is a spot we'll come back to to satisfy our cravings.

Batavia Corner
912 Albany Hwy
East Victoria Park, 6101

Melbourne Bites # 5: Warung Agus

Balinese food in Melbourne – who would’ve thought? But this place really is a testament to how a city can cook up the most delectable food simply by scooping into its melting pot of cultures. A meal here promises a sensation for the tastebuds – every dish is packed full of flavour and perfectly executed. The pork satay is exceptional as is the gado gado. The accompanying sambals offered with every meal pack a real punch and cuts through the richness of coconut milk that is used quite liberally in Balinese cooking. But the standout here is the Babi Guling – a slow roasted pork dish with oh so sinful crackling. The meat is perfectly cooked and the accompanying sauce intriguing and addictive. A definite must try.

Warung Agus

305 Victoria Street

West Melbourne

Open for dinner Thursdays to Sundays only

Its a small world after all

So I'm sitting in the plane as it descends into Soekarno-Hatta airport - and I freak. Frankly, Indonesia's never been at the top of my list of places to visit. News headlines about the traffic, corruption, disparate poverty and pollution have always struck me as less than ideal reasons to visit this country. And so, looking out the window as my flight fumbled its way through the thick smog surrounding Jakarta, it felt like each of these stories were unfolding before me - one by one. Facing unfamiliar territory, language and culture - I wondered how I was going to deal with spending the following six days. But just about everyone I had spoken to raved about the food in this densely populated city - and so I took a deep breath (of smog) as I emerged from the airport and proceeded with somewhat reserved excitement

Nasi Padang

Breakfast in Indonesia is never just about getting a kick start to your day. Indonesians love eating - and the first meal to the day doesn't have to be any different in content to lunch, or dinner for that matter. Fried chicken, curries, stews are all game in the breakfast meal and there's no better example of this than Nasi Padang, literally a smorgasbord of all of the above served with steamed rice. I was also surprised - and to be honest, a little disturbed, that there is no ordering that takes place in this sort of restaurant. Instead, the waiter brings out tapas portions of everything there is on offer and lays it onto the table. You proceed to eat your meal and the waiter than calculates the bill based on how much is eaten. What is not finished or untouched is returned to the pots and brought out again for the next batch of guests. It was bizarre - the food was appealing and off-putting, both at the same time. So here's my travel tip: Go early in the morning for Indonesian Nasi Padang - that way you stand a better chance of having food that didn't belong to a previous group of diners.

Kembang Goela

If you're looking to sample local cuisine in a more upmarket setting (think silverware, chandeliers, smartly dressed waiters and a jazz pianist performing while you dine) - then you can't go past Kembang Goela, a restaurant that serves up beautifully presented Indonesian food. The Empal Balado (Crispy stewed beef in a fresh chilli dressing) and the Nasi Kuning (Turmeric flavoured rice accompanied by an assortment of sambals and Indonesian fried chicken) were standouts. The service was also impeccable - which is something that I actually noticed in almost all the restaurants and street stalls we visited during my stay. It appears that good service in Indonesia doesn't have to come at a premium price - which I think is something that all cultures can learn from.

The Soup Godfather

One of my favourite Indonesian dishes is the humble Soto - which is basically a rich chicken or beef soup filled with a choice of meats - including shredded chicken, stewed beef, beef tendon, marrow or my favorite - tripe. I love this dish because it is great comfort food - and the fact that every region in Indonesia has its own version. Pak Sadi is the undisputed Godfather of Soto Ayam (chicken soup). Originating from Surabaya, a large number of his restaurants (named after himself) are scattered across Indonesia, and of course, Jakarta. Pak Sadi even has his portrait hanging in each of these restaurants and also imprinted on the bowls and plates. How's that for feeding an ego?

Just like home

My parents come from a little town in Sarawak called Sibu, which is also referred to as Little Foochow due to the large number of Foochow Chinese who first settled there. Consequently, Foochow food has always reminded me of the visits to my parent's hometown since I was little. So it was with some surprise that these feelings came rushing back on this trip when I came across dishes that seemed to have strong Foochow influences. Bakmie - the famous Indonesian noodle dish that consists of freshly cooked home made noodles tossed in oil used to fry up crispy shallots, soya sauce, MSG (of course) and topped with minced meat or chicken tastes strikingly similar to the Sibu Kampua Mee. I also came across the Indonesian versions of Deah Biang (a crispy fried rice cake filled with minced meat) and Gom Biang (a chewy bagel topped with sesame seeds) which tasted heart-warmingly familiar.

And so, I realised that my initial reactions to uncharted territory were unfounded - that maybe the world is not as intimidating and different as we think it is. That you should never judge a country by just its cover story. Yes - we were stuck in traffic for hours. Its true - corruption in Indonesia is simply a way of life. There is also an unimaginable gap between the haves and the have-nots. But put aside your judgements about the way things are - and you'll find a country of genuine and respectful people who enjoy good food - just like yourself. And who knows? Just like me - you might even find yourself standing on common ground in a foreign land.