It just ain't the same

I have just returned from a trip from Singapore where, as usual, the itinerary consisted of the next destination to eat, the tight timeslots for snacking and a whole lotta satisfaction.

And whilst it can often be easy to forget the food that you miss whilst living in a different country to the one you grew up in, I have found with every visit a clear reminder that some things will always be better in Asia... full stop.

One of my favourite regular haunts of late everytime I am in Singapore is a coffeeshop just off the hustle and bustle of Chinatown. Whilst seemingly like just another of the many coffeeshops in Singapore on the outside, this eatery on a quiet street filled with loads of character boasts some of the most kickass char siew wanton mein (barbecued pork wanton noodles) ever... and I mean kick ass.

As a popular reality cooking show currently airing would describe, the "hero" of the dish here is without doubt the char siew. Perfectly sweet and caramelised with just the right amount of marbling in the melt in your mouth pork, this is truly something special that you realise will never be replicated in Australia.

The noodles here are also served al dente (which gets a big tick in my books) in a dark sweet soy sauce - perfectly balanced with a mild but savoury sambal chilli. The only let down would probably be the wantons here - not particularly memorable with not a whole lot of flavour... but then again, with the "hero" of this dish being so damn good - there'll be plenty to write home about before you return to your adopted country to realise, quite sadly, that some things will just never be the same.

Foong Kee Coffeeshop
6 Keong Saik Road
Singapore

More than just numbers

Fi53fty three is creating a huge buzz in the culinary hive of high end restaurants in Singapore… and its not just about the numbers with this gem. Housed at number 53 in a refurbished heritage shop house on the quaint Aremenian Street, the 2 story restaurant makes one bold statement in keeping to only 7 private dining tables, seating a maximum of 28. Helmed by the young Singaporean head chef Michael Han, widely regarded as the next big thing here, the equation here is nouvelle cuisine done with panache.

We popped by to sample the lunch menu which offered a choice from three appetisers, mains and desserts. For starters, the air dried wagyu with beetroot and hibiscus granita was visually stunning. The latter was a refreshing palate cleanser contrasting the salty, fatty cured meat.

There was also a brilliant cold pasta dish of spaghettini in a konbu dressing and topped with (of all things) toasted hay (yes – the stuff horses eat). Refreshingly light yet packed with umami flavour, this was beautiful to look at as well as to eat.

What was outstanding however was the fruit salad of Japanese cherry tomatoes, amao strawberries and compressed watermelon smothered in a rich, zingy and salty horseradish cream. This dish is a perfect starter, awakening and refreshing the palate at the same time – and the clever contrast of ingredients is something that you’ll probably have never (or expected to have ever) tasted before. My only gripe with this dish is that the chef could have been less heavy handed with the horseradish cream – which whilst a perfect contrast for the fruit salad, was quite rich and a little overwhelming towards the end.

For mains the seared beef flap (served deliciously rare) accompanied by light as air potato soufflé and crunchy potato bits was deceptively simple but done very well. This less “luxurious” cut whilst slightly chewy had great flavour and was a joy to eat. The pan fried wild barramundi with a crispy baguette again proved that you don’t have to dress a great ingredient for great results.

The only letdown for me personally for an otherwise impressive lunch was the desserts. Whilst clever in the complementing of the base flavours, the roasted figs with olive tapenade served with Szechuan peppercorn ice cream tasted far too medicinal for me.

The chocolate caramel enoki mushrooms with raspberry granita and peanut cream on the other hand was interesting – the tart elements taking the edge nicely off the otherwise very sweet chocolate caramel.

But back to the numbers – with only 7 tables to serve in one seating, at least 5 chefs (including sous and assistants) in the kitchen, and 4 service staff, the name of the game here is an intimate dining experience.

From freshly baked bread served in a bag packed with heated stones to keep its contents warm, to fussing over the preparation and presentation of each dish (I observed 4 chefs crowding over our plates before our meals were brought out.

Nevertheless, one can’t help but wonder about the long term success of Fi53fty three as a business operation given its obvious high cost per dining customer. But with food this good and the reservation book being filled weeks in advance since opening, all that's left to do is the math.

Fi53fty three
53 Armenian Street
Singapore

Cheek to Cheek

Heaven… I’m in heaven. I’ve finally found a tonkotsu ramen in Singapore that reminds me of Ichiran ramen which I have been raving about since my trip to Fukuoka late last year.

Santouka ramen is located in Central shopping centre, a Japanese themed mall filled with Japanese eateries serving everything from yoshoku to tonkatsu. Hailing from Hokkaido, Santouka is reknowned for this region’s version of tonkotsu ramen. And it is good – the broth here is rich, creamy, complex and simply soul warming. So rich and intensely flavoured in fact that it definitely isn’t one for the faint hearted. And whilst I still think that Hakata still makes the best pork bone broth, the version here is pure bliss.

The star of the show here however is the sliced meat to accompany your noodles. Unlike the normal char shiu you get in other establishments, Santouka uses toroniku (braised pork cheeks) as the accompaniment. I was impressed with the pork belly used at Ichiran – but was blown away by Santouka’s version. Melt in your mouth, so beautifully marbled and tender – this luxurious part of the porcine was oh so good.

What makes it all the more special is the limited qualities of this prized meat available (each pig has 200 to 300 grams worth) which limits sales to 60 servings per day – a real treat.

The noodles here are competent and done Asahikawa style which are thicker than Hakata ramen and slightly curly. They were cooked firm to the bite as they should be - but I felt lacked the delicious texture that made Ichiran so special. The gyoza served here was also competent but I still much prefer the version served at that other Fukuoka ramen icon, Ippudo, for its crisp texture and juicy fillings.

Nevertheless – I’m not complaining – a great broth, outrageously good char shiu, well cooked noodles… and most importantly, a reminder of what heaven tastes like without having to buy a plane ticket to Japan. A definite must try.

Ramen Santouka

6 Eu Tong Sen St

#02-76, The Central

Warring Plates

Only in Singapore will something seemingly mundane and trivial become blown out of proportion into a fight for supremacy. I am of course talking about the humble Malay dish of Nasi Lemak - basically coconut flavoured rice with accompaniments and the all important sambal chilli.

Adam Road Food Centre is where the battle scene takes place - where two food stalls that are placed side by side serve this simple dish and draw crowds of compatriots who swear by their chosen camp as being superior.

Selera Nasi Lemak (pictured first) has won huge accolades for its product - so popular that it is rumoured that the Sultan of Brunei gets takeaway from here whenever he's in town. The use of Basmati rice results in beautifully fluffy rice lightly scented with alluring coconut milk. Their chicken wings are well marinated and perfectly fried, delightfully crispy and so addictive. But whilst many swear by the sambal chilli here, I found it a tad sweet for my liking and lacked the kick to bring this dish together.

Adam's Nasi Lemak (pictured second) has legions of fans for its offerings. The strength of their artillery lies in their sambal chilli which has a perfect balance of sweetness and heat. However, I found their rice less fluffy than its counterpart but this may be due to a heavier use of coconut milk in their recipe which some may prefer. Their chicken wings were noticeably less crispy and well flavoured - which was a bit of a letdown.

So which camp will I be eating on? Whilst I hate to take sides - Selera Nasi Lemak gets my vote for being the better overall package. It would be great if the two could produce something beautiful together for what they bring to the table... the world (or at least this part of town) would be a better place.

But just like any war, my guess is that these two will keep battling it out... if for no other reason than to give its followers something to fight for.

Selera Nasi Lemak
2 Adam Road
Stall 2 Adam Road Food Centre

Adam's Nasi Lemak
2 Adam Road
Stall 1 Adam Road Food Centre

Ruined for Ramen

Since tasting the incredible tonkotsu ramen at Ichiran in Fukuoka (see blog entry "My deathrow meal"), I have been saddened at the prospect that I probably will have to wait for another trip to Japan in order to reconnect with the euphoria and pure bliss from this ultimate dish.

While having tasted greatness is something that I am deeply grateful for - I feel like I have been inflicted with ramen snobbery - every bowl of noodles outside of Japan that I have found to be pretty good in the past now tastes bland, ordinary and almost an insult to what the original versions should taste like. Yes... its true, I have inevitably become a right wing ramenist... discriminating every ramen's brothright and judging them by their texture rather than treating them as equals.

And so was the case at Menya Shinchan, a ramen specialist located in Robertson Quay in Singapore which has won a huge following with locals and Japanese expatriates alike for their handmade noodles. I ordered the spicy tonkotsu ramen - so wanting it to remind my taste buds of my experience in Fukuoka... but was sadly disappointed.

The broth was generic - lacking depth and richness found in the Ichiran version - and more importantly was low on the umami factor which is so crucial in a good bowl of ramen. The noodles while al dente didn't have the texture and consistency that made every slurp as delectable as what I wanted it to. I also found that the addition of menma (simmered bamboo shoots) distracting and unnecessary (but that's just a personal preference).

It wasn't that Menya Shinchan makes a bad bowl of ramen... I would probably have enjoyed it more if I had tasted it prior to my trip to Fukuoka... but I have been ruined for ramen... a bigot to all tonkotsu ramen outside of Japan... but I remain unrepentant - it's their fault or all tasting the same anyways.

Menya Shinchan
30 Robertson Quay
#01-05 Riverside View

Eating in the past

There are a few things that I always come back for whenever I'm in Singapore - Bak Kut Teh for breakfast definitely makes the list as comfort food that reconnects me with my early memories of growing up in Singapore.

The combination of a potent, peppery pork rib soup and a full bodied pot of chinese tie guan yin tea which you brew at your own pace is the ultimate pick me up as the first meal to the day. Whilst many may cringe at the thought of having meat, rice and soup for breakfast - I love it.

My family and I have been coming to this eatery in Tiong Bahru for yonks - it may not serve the best bak kut teh around but we have seen it go through a few changes in its name and ownership. It's for this reason that we feel a strong connection from being witness to the passing of time at a shared table here.

The best time to come is as early as you can in the morning (breakfast is served from 6:30am) while a blanket of tranquil blue still envelopes the Tiong Bahru area. At this hour, your dining companions are more than likely the elderly who have been frequenting this eatery even before you were born. But just like me, I think they will keep coming back to gather at a table here... if only to keep eating in the past.

Old Tiong Bahru Bak Kut Teh
Blk 58 Seng Poh Lane

Sinful Sin Huat

Singapore has made its mark on the global food map - featuring strongly in the recent Asian equivalent of the Michelin guide with its range of high profile, high calibre, high end restaurants. But ask me about the single most memorable meal I've had in Singapore and its actually found in the most unlikely of places - Geylang, the red light district of this conservative island.

Sin Huat is one of those places you are more than likely to miss while in the area - an old style coffeeshop with cracked tiles, plastic chairs and bathed in a sea of green tinged fluoroscent lighting - it makes almost no effort in its decor or ambience. The service can be at most described as aloof and the prices - astronomically high given the settings you are dining in (be prepared to pay around $70 a head for your dinner). One could be forgiven for thinking that the owner of this restaurant really couldn't care less about your dining experience.

But it's clearly and purely the food that draws the crowds in night and night again to this humble eatery - probably the best seafood you'll ever taste cooked to absoute perfection in the simplest of ways. The chef Danny Lee is a bit of an enigma - a pig farmer turned self trained cook, he insists on taking orders for every table and cooks for each table one at a time - resulting in waiting times of about 40 minutes for your food to arrive. But you never hear complaints while dining here - I think it's because everyone who makes the pilgrimage here knows what they're buying into... and the brilliant food is well worth the wait.

We started with fresh (and everything is fresh here - Danny never stores his seafood in refrigerators and everything is sourced from the fish tanks on order) scallops steamed in their shells and smothered in an incrediby addictive black bean sauce. We then had the steamed squid topped with garlic and scallions which were cut into calamari rings at the table... this was cooked perfectly - the calamari lusciously tender and delicious paired with the simple seasonings. We were then blown away by the steamed prawns in garlic, scallions and chinese wine... so fresh, so succulent... so good. Danny's handling of seafood is astounding with the natural sweetness of his ingredients shining through and highlighted by his closely guarded sauces.

But what was the climax to this already incredible meal was hands down what this place is famous for - the crab bee hoon. Sri Lankan crabs simmered in an addictive broth with thin rice noodles, scallions and crab roe... this is flavour to the max with incredible "wok hei" permeating every slurp. Tucking into this dish - decor, service and pricing became almost petty issues that not once crossed our minds... really brilliant stuff.

Sin Huat makes a trip to sin city well worth it and dares to challenge the notion of a fine dining institution. It probably will never feature in the Michelin guide and will most certainly offend many who expect more for what they pay... but with food this good - I really couldn't care less.

Sin Huat Seafood Restaurant
659-661 Geylang Lorong 35 (at the corner of Geylang Rd)
Tel: 6744-9778

Just for health kicks

I'm back in Singapore and the first thing I've noticed is that my diet here isn't as healthy as it is (or should be) when compared to my lifestyle in Australia. The in your face availability of guilty pleasures propositioning you at every corner in this gastronomic island makes a salad lunch sound like a ridiculous option.

Thankfully for dishes like Lei Cha Fan (literally "Thunder Tea Rice") available at some hawker centres, there's hope yet for weak willed eaters like myself. Basically a Hakka specialty, it derives its name from the preparation of the accompanying tea soup which requires heavy pounding of various herbs and nuts. The dish itself consists of brown rice and an assortment of vegetables, tofu, peanuts and crispy anchovies as toppings. This is a vego's dream - the different textures and flavours more than making up for the lack of meat in this dish.

I love this dish because it tastes and feels like a hawker's detox remedy - but I know that one man's meat may be another man's poison. The accompanying soup is not everyone's cup of tea (literally) and may take some adjusting to. The relatively bland vegetables may also be boring to some... but if you're in desperate need to tear yourself away from the indulgence of the abundance of greasy temptations - Lei Cha Fan may just be the perfect antidote.

http://www.sbestfood.com/thundertearice (click for locations)

China Clubbing

China Club in Hong Kong is a retro-chic Shanghai themed restaurant that is strictly members only. A highly successful concept there - making business dining and wining both exclusive and very sexy. Thus, it was with high hopes that the same establishment was transplanted in Singapore back in late 2001.

This restaurant has all the right ingredients - the impeccably designed space with dark wood furniture, high ceilings and quality chinaware (all embossed with the club's red star emblem), housed atop the 52nd floor of the Capital Tower in Singapore's Central Business District. The views from the restaurant are spectacular and the service is spot on.

Whilst it doesn't boast an inventive dim sum menu that we sampled for a late lunch... most items here are well executed and hard to fault. The pork buns were fluffy with a deliciously sweet char siew filling... the vegetable crystal dumplings with its crunchy filling and chewy exterior provided a great contrast in textures... the steamed carrot cake was perfectly light and the pork trotters stewed in black vinegar and quail eggs... simply divine.

But surprisingly, I was told that the restaurant has not been doing well since it was established - as a matter of fact we were only one of three other tables dining for a Sunday lunch in the expansive restaurant.

Clever packaging, decent food, good service, great views - what's not to love? Well for one, being a members only establishment does have its pitfalls - you only cater to those who care to fork out for membership and a monthly subscription fee (that isn't cheap) just to gain access to the restaurant. And for that price - I better hope the food is outrageously spectacular.

Maybe Singaporeans are more discerning in terms of what they pay for as compared to their Hong Kong counterparts... but for the sake of China Club, I sure hope they let down that velvet rope just a little so that exclusivity does not prevent more from enjoying a fine dining experience.

Pub Trawl

There aren't many things better in life than crispy fish, crispy chips and crispy cold beer. Whilst this simple fare is widely available (and done very well) in Australia, it is more of a rarity in Singapore. And so I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy this pub staple at Tuckshop, a small diner in Tanjong Pagar that serves up a small menu of unpretentious eats (think steak sandwiches, lamb chops, salads, etc) to go with your choice of beers on tap, including Asahi (my personal favourite).

The generous serving of lightly battered dory was brilliant - extremely crispy and the fish still beautifully moist. The icy cold Asahi beer went down a treat and the beautiful pairing brought a smile to my face. Tuckshop also has a live band on certain nights that plays a mix of soul and jazz. And to top it off - prices are extremely reasonable - Dining at happy hour, dinner came to just $15 including my drink. I guess life just got a little better...

Italian with Heart

I had the privilege of joining in the celebration of the wedding anniverary of close family friends, the L's last night. The L's are close family friends and have been there for my family during our darkest hours when dad became critically ill. They are incredibly giving people and last night, celebrated 33 years of marriage.

We celebrated this wonderful occassion at Trattoria Lafiandra Al Museo - an unpretentious, cosy Italian restaurant housed in the Singapore Art Museum. Another close family friend who had hosted a party there previously arranged for a menu designed by the chef and owner, Cataldo Lafiandra.

We started off with the antipasto which consisted of grilled vegetables (portobello mushrooms, zucchini, eggplant), calamari with aioli, eggplant parmigiana. The presentation of the dishes were very rustic as were the flavours - robust and had a great home cooked element to them. The eggplant parmigiana in particular was excellent - oven baked eggplant rolls in home made tomato ragu filled with meltingly gooey mozzarella.

We then followed with two types of pizza - rocket with fresh tomatoes and parma ham. Both were very good with perfectly thin and crispy crusts. Chef Cataldo is also very generous with his toppings, the latter pizza covered with deliciously salty prosciutto.

We were also served a very hearty fettucine bolognese. A dish that is often misunderstood because of the trashy versions that are served in American style diners... this was done the way it should be. Hand made pasta tossed in a rich ragu of beef and pork mince in tomatoes finished with a hint of cream... Love it.

For mains we were served an assortment of simply grilled crayfish, pan fried dory, grilled chicken and beef fillet with sauteed mushrooms. Aside from the chicken which had obviously spent too much time on the grill and was actually burnt rather than charred, everything else was delicious. The beef was cooked to a perfect medium rare (just the way I like it) and had been simply seasoned with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice.

The food at Lafiandra has a comforting factor to them with most dishes being hearty in portion and flavour - the restaurant is very unpretentious and doesn't try overly hard to impress. Prices are very reasonable which is something which I have found is a rarity for good Italian food in Singapore.

We left Lafiandra happy and I was glad to have been able to share such a joyous occassion with such dear friends. Happy Anniversary Uncle KL and Aunty CH... May your life together be like one big party - filled with delicious food, infectious laughter and great company in one another.

A Hidden gem

We stopped by Keppel Country Club (10 Bukit Chermin Road) for a game of tennis the other night and decided to have dinner at one of the many restaurants there since it was starting to rain fairly heavily. Now I've never been fond of going to restaurants in Country Clubs... maybe because I have a perception that these restaurants cater to club members and face little competition compared to restaurants located in areas filled with eateries.

But I stood corrected on this night. We decided to check out Kome, the new Japanese restaurant in the club. The restaurant is open to the public but members get a 5% discount and have the 10% service charge waived. Bento lovers be warned - unlike many Japanese restaurants in Singapore, Kome only serves bento sets at lunchtime - dinner here is strictly an ala carte affair. Our table ordered a few dishes to sample given that it was our first visit.

The grilled hamachi cheek was perfectly grilled with sea salt, the firm fleshed fish still moist and packed full of flavour. We also tasted the pacific saury done in the same way - a much sweeter tasting fish than the hamachi, it was delicious.

The grilled cod, chawanmushi and the house specialty - garlic fried rice served in bamboo bowls, were ordered as sides. Each was very well executed and hard to fault.

What stood out for me however is the quality of the sashimi here. The Chirashi-don, an assortment of raw fish on sushi rice was heavenly. Kome uses a much thicker cut of fish and the selection was very generous. Most importantly - the sashimi here is very fresh and was pretty as a picture when it arrived - a testament to the executive chef, Tony Young's, experience from having trained and worked in Japan for many years.

We finished the meal very happy - Kome is a very competent Japanese restaurant with its sashimi being the star attraction for me here... however it wasn't as busy as I would have thought it would be on a Saturday night. Perhaps there are many out there like me that think less of restaurants located in country clubs - but for its sake I hope that, they too, will learn not a judge a restaurant by its location.

Simply Bellissimo!

The occassion - To celebrate the birthday of a close family friend. The venue - Pontini, a reputable Italian restaurant located in the Grand Copthorne Waterfront hotel in Singapore. The result - a great evening filled with laughter, great wine and simple yet delicious Italian food.

We started with Pontini's freshly made wood fire oven pizzas (roasted vegetables, italian sausage and prawns with rocket being the three different toppings). The pizzas were all well made and had a deliciously thin, crispy base. Simple toppings using quality ingredients are the best in my book when pizzas are concerned - and Pontini delivered just that.

What followed was an entree sized pasta dish - spaghetti with pancetta, chilli and mixed mushrooms. Perfectly al dente freshly made pasta with yet again clean flavours. The salty pancetta was perfectly balanced against the earthy mixture of porcini and portabello mushrooms.For mains, I decided on a medium rare tenderloin steak which was served on a bed of spinach in a veal jus and balsamic reduction. Whilst not a particularly large serving - the meat was perfectly cooked and the uncomplicated accompanying sauce made this a more than satisfying dish.

We of course had room for the birthday cake - a stunning dark chocolate grenache cake to round off the meal with freshly brewed Italian coffee.

The service at Pontini's was spot on - waiters were readily available without being overly intrusive. The clean presentation of the dishes and the elegant private dining room also reflected the restaurant's approach to its food to a tee.

I thorougly enjoyed this meal - and what defined it for me is the fundamental appeal of Italian food - using the best ingredients available and cooking it simply but well.

Good Italian food should be unadorned, rich in flavour and beautiful in its simplicity... and Pontini's food is exactly that - simply beautiful.

Where time stands still

I spent most of my childhood in Singapore - and along with that part of my life are many fond food memories. Back then, having a steak dinner was a novelty and my dad used to love to bring us to a Russian steakhouse near our home for special occassions or treats.

The venue then was Shashlik restaurant, an iconic establishment off Orchard Road in Far East Shopping centre. Only in Singapore will you get a Russian restaurant run by elderly Hainanese Chinese waiters who bring your orders to the table in wooden pushcarts.

My dad especially loved the breadrolls that were always served piping hot and the signature Borsch soup (a rich tomato beef stew with vegetables served with a thick dollop of sour cream). The steaks were all served on sizzling hotplates which used to be the fad back then and served with unashamedly unRussian condiments - bottles of Heinz tomato and chilli sauce or English mustard that were presented on request.

Fast forward almost 10 years and I find myself walking into this same dimly lit establishment last night - and immediately I was struck by the familiarity of everything that is this restaurant. The same aromas and sounds from sizzling plates, the same decor of deep yellow table cloths and mahogany chairs, the same vibe of nonchalant service that is provided on a need to be provided basis. I was however saddened to see that only one of the original Hainanese waiters was still working in the restaurant. Surprisingly, I could still remember their faces and how each had their own mannerisms and quirks.

We started with the Borsch soup which evoked immediate nostalgia - memories of birthdays, anniversaries, etc came flooding back to me with each sip. This was the definition of comfort food - more than just a soup - I tasted the coversations, warmth and laughter that my family shared in this restaurant. Mopped up by the familiar piping hot bread rolls - I was a happy man.

The Oysters Mornay that followed were tasty - rich bechamel sauce and parmasean cheese smothered oysters which were then placed under a hot grill. Not exactly Russian and definitely not sophisticated - but to be honest, I couldn't have cared less.

Shortly after our starters, the familiar sound of the rolling pushcart arrived and we tucked into a medium rare Chateaubriand steak (which at Shashlik means a tenderloin steak with mushroom sauce made from canned champignions and served on a hot plate with sides of frozen mixed vegetables, crinkle cut chips and a lonesome grilled tomato). There was too much butter in the sauce (and the frozen vegetables as well I suspect) and the sides weren't exactly inspiring - but this was as unpretentious as they come. Everyone comes here knowing what they will get - a slice of how a foreign cuisine was adapted and used to taste when it was first introduced to Singapore.

As I sipped on the aromatic Hainanese coffee at the end of the meal - I remembered how dad used to love coming here. How he would always order extra servings of the soft breadrolls and smile at his first sip of the Borsch soup. And although I will no longer be able to see him do these things - I am glad that places like Shashlik exist to challenge the passing of time and perhaps - to simply allow its patrons to indulge in reliving the past.

Eat & Drink

The Spanish have their tapas bars and the Chinese have their dim sum houses. The idea of small portions of tasty morsels to be shared amongst friends over a drink (whether it be a bottle of tempranillo or a pot of freshly brewed oolong) is appealing because it fosters a shared dining experience.
The Japanese equivalent of this form of dining is the izakaya - or literally to stay and drink. Izakayas are found all over Japan and are immensely popular with many such establishments creating innovative and incredibly delicious snacks to accompany sake or a cold Japanese beer. And given the regional nature of Japan's cuisine - each Izakaya boasts an interesting array of dishes which pay tribute to its region's produce and history.

The prefecture of Okinawa is the most southern of the 47 prefectures in Japan and was only incorporated into Japan about 100 years ago. Consequently, the southern islands still maintain their own distinctive culture, language and cuisine. Okinawan cooking tends toward stronger and spicier flavors than Japanese food, and is more heavily influenced by Chinese cooking styles. Okinawan Diner - Nirai Kanai is a charming, almost rustic izakaya located in the basement of Liang Court - a mall which is heavily patronised by the Japanese expatriate community in Singapore.
We started with a delicious grated daikon salad with sesame dressing. The simple salad was highlighted by wakame, bonito flakes, shiso leaves and cherry tomatoes.

The house specialty, slow cooked pork belly was also well executed with the meat meltingly tender. Being tempted by many of the dishes on the menu, we also ordered the okinawan okonomiyaki (try saying that quickly repeatedly) and the grilled ox tongue. Both dishes which were tasty but not particularly interesting.

The highlight for me personally, was the barbecued pork ribs with shio (salt). Soft pork bone which has been slow cooked until an almost gelatinous consistency is then barbecued and seasoned in sea salt. Simple flavours combined with lovely textures. Salty, juicy, gooey and crusty - all at the same time. Perfect with a refreshing glass of cold Japanese beer or sake.

I love izakayas... almost in the same way I love tapas bars and dim sum houses. Maybe its because you often find a huge variety of interesting dishes to sample. Or it could be that these places are often relaxed and loud conversations are welcome. But perhaps its simply that life's simple pleasures are condensed in such establishments - where good food, good drinks and good friends come together... and that's what great meals are born of.