South Korea Part 2: Seoul Searching

Seoul intrigues me. The capital of South Korea is a constantly a case of extremes... tradition and fierce patriotism trying to remain relevant in a modern society thriving on capitalism and a fascination for the West. An urban sprawl of skyscrapers sprouting amongst the fertile crop of century old buildings. Impossibly expensive high end shopping proving just as popular as underground markets selling knock offs of their counterparts. And so it is with the food.




During my two days there - I was able to sample the most amazing and affordable street food which koreans simply adore - dok bokki (spicy korean rice cakes) and odeng (korean fish cakes) were just some examples of the widely available morsels, particularly at nightfall when the streets really come alive. We also had bi bim bap - probably the most popular korean dish outside of korea. But the mixed rice in a sizzling earthenware pot with the most colourful of vegetables topped with a raw egg was unlike any that I've tasted prior to this visit. The delicate balance and unique taste and textures of the assortment of vegetables and kim chee are quite a contrast to the often uniform, sweet tasting versions that you get outside of Korea.

On the other extreme, we also had the pleasure of the most decadent (and expensive of meals), courtesy of our extremely generous hosts. This was a once in a lifetime experience - a 10 course meal of the finest seafood you'll probably be able to get (some say even better) outside of Japan. From the sweetest lobster sashimi, to US$10 a serve of ottoro maki sushi. Run by an ex-trawler (pictured above) who is infectiously passionate about his craft, we are patiently told about how to appreciate each dish and its origins. The climax of the meal however was a sight to behold - the most incredibly marbled sashimi platter of the best tuna you will probably ever taste. Arranged in sections on the platter to represent the various parts of the fish, each mouthful was just pure bliss with the delightfully oily fish melting in your mouth with a touch of freshly grated wasabi root. Awesome.

And so - my two days in Seoul was without a doubt a sensory overload - the constant rush of extremes in this intriguing city was in itself a direct contrast to the quiet and simple experience in Jeju-do just 48 hours before... but that is exactly what makes South Korea an unforgettable destination.

South Korea Part One: Jeju-Do

"Anyong Haseyo!" Our guide beams enthusiastically as we stumble into Gimpo airport, Jeju-Do, after a 10 hour trip from Singapore. I was tired, grumpy and in desperate need of a toothbrush and did my best to work up a polite smile.

But all was forgotten as we drove along the coastline of Jeju-do. This is one beautiful island and probably the reason why it has played the backdrop to many a Korean films that have proven all the rage in Asia in recent years.
Being the only self governing province in South Korea, Jeju-do relies heavily on tourism and the abundant seafood it is blessed with as its main exports. In particular, the island is well known for its abalone that is featured in many dishes that are native to the island. The locals are also fiercely proud of their heritage - a really cool example is a group of women divers, the Haenyo, who dive regularly in very deep and often harsh conditions for shellfish, despite most of them being in their 70s (some even older). Their passion for the sea is inspiring and made me appreciate the seafood that I had on the island all the more.

Two food highlights for me while I was on Jeju-do, not surprisingly, featured abalone. The first was abalone stewed rice porridge. Deceptively simple (and not particularly photogenic), this very light tasting porridge is heartwarming and features chunks of very tender abalone pieces.

The second was an out of this world Sam Gae Tang (Korean ginseng chicken soup). A small free range chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, dates and korean ginseng simmered for hours in a very tasty broth. The Jeju-do version includes whole abalone pieces which are again extremely fresh and tender to the bite. I love how this is a one bowl meal with your meat, seafood, rice and soup all harmoniously combined in an earthenware pot.

I have always believed that food acts as a mirror for the people that create it. In Jeju-do, the simple, down to earth food does exactly that for the warm and hospitable locals who are so very proud of their produce and heritage. I think it is for this reason and everything that is this beautiful island that will keep people coming back for more.

Using your Noodle

I recently returned from a short trip to South Korea (which I'll blog about once I can be bothered to sieve through the million snaps that I took in my 4 days there), spending time in Jeju-do and Seoul. And whilst I sampled some fantastic dishes during this time, there was one dish that I never got a chance to taste due to that old problem of having too many cravings and too little time.

The dish? Ja Jang Myun - korean rice noodles with a dark, gooey, chewy sauce of black bean paste, pork and an assortment of diced vegetables. Scoring a big fat zero on the list of glamorous things to eat - you mix the noodles and the accompanying sauce into a pile of sticky mess and slurp up, not once caring about staining the white shirt you're wearing coz it just tastes so darn good.

In South Korea, Ja Jang Myun is the epitomy of fast food delivery - just call up the hotline and tell them where you'll be waiting (sitting by the third tree closest to the park entrance, or next to the guy that sells sports shoes in the heart of Dong Dae Mun) - and your noodles will arrive piping hot courtesy of a delivery guy on his motorbike in under 20 minutes. Incredible. It seems to me that the US government should really just hire a few Ja Jang Myun delivery guys to track down their most wanted.

But back to cravings... I returned from my trip strangely unfulfilled. Afterall, I had looked forward to slurping a bowl of Ja Jang Myun in the most random of places while I was in Seoul. I wanted to experience what it would be like for your meal to come looking for you rather than the other way round. And so - not one to leave cravings unfulfilled, I decided to cook up my own version today. A surprisingly quick and simple lunch of flat korean rice noodles topped with a gooey sauce of pork, diced vegetables (radish, cabbage, carrots, onions), korean black bean paste and toasted sesame seeds.

I happily tucked into my messy meal, thrilled at the sloppy deliciousness of it all. And while I knew that the noodle delivery guy didn't find me, I was still grateful for having found my own little bowl of Ja Jang Myun.