That Little Mexican Place

Mexican food outside of the States and of course... Mexico... has a pretty bad rep due to the confusion with tex mex cuisine - consisting usually of sloopy greasy nachos and soggy burritos. Of course, just like good chinese food isn't about satay chicken and mongolian lamb, real Mexican food is nothing like tex mex has made it out to be. Quite the opposite, authentic Mexican food is fresh, light, complex and darn right exciting.

That Little Mexican Place in North Perth (and now also in Vic Park)... is exactly as its name describes.. a small eatery that serves up honest Mexican food. We dropped by for a lazy weekend lunch - crab meat empanadas, freshly made tacos with shredded pork and salsa verde, shredded goat tamale and a beautiful albondigas in chipotle and tomato salsa. Everything was fresh, zingy and so exciting to eat. The empanadas were a highlight - the beautiful corn pastry encasing perfectly seasoned crab meat. The albondigas were also incredibly addictive - mexican meatballs served piping hot in a chipotle and tomato sauce - smoky, rich and so moreish.

The food at TLMP is very well executed - and for those who may not have discovered what real Mexican food is all about, it is a fantastic place to visit to taste what I think is truly one of the most underrated cuisines in the world.

That Little Mexican Place
382 Fitzgerald Street
North Perth

When close is almost enough

Let's face it. Hawker fare will never be the same here in Perth as it is in South East Asia. Not only are prices phenomenally ridiculous here, you constantly find yourself desperately seeking that familiar flavor of a well cooked hawker dish.

Enter Newton Circle which is perched in, of all places, a food court in the city. This long running establishment is packed during the office lunch hour and offers a range of hawker items at reasonable prices (for Perth city's crazy standards).

The most popular items here are clearly the Char kway teow and Hainanese chicken rice. The former is more akin to a Singaporean version with a slight dousing of sweet soy sauce with the addition of lap cheong (Chinese sausage) and the latter is more Malaysian in flavor with a more savoury soy dressing.

The verdict? As cliched as it sounds, it definitely is not as good as what you can get in most hawker centres in Singapore or Malaysia... at literally a fraction of the price. But it works to at least satisfy a craving. The Char kway teow has that sometimes elusive charred "wok hei" flavor which is a good indicator for any great wok fried dish. The seasoning however lacks depth and body which you find it the gutsy versions you might be used to.

The chicken rice is generous but the meat is definitely on the tough side (which is always made worse by most chicken rice establishments here that microwave the chicken before serving). The rice also lacks the ginger and garlic hit you expect when you tuck into this iconic dish. What is pretty good here is the chilli sauce - laced with lemon juice, it bears some resemblance to the lime spiked versions you get in Singapore.

All in all, Newton Circle is not a bad spot to visit when you want to find the familiar - it won't stop you yearning for the real stuff... but at least it helps jolt the food memory till the next time you find it.

Newton Circle
4/207 Murray Street
(Sidewalk cafe on the top floor of Carillon arcade)

Spanish Flavours

For those of you out there who have previously discovered the incredible chorizo at Spanish Flavors, previously in Wembley, Rosa and her little deli have moved to the Leederville/Mount Hawthorn border.

Rosa is a bit of a celebrity here in Perth - her chorizo sausages are widely regarded as the best in town with many restaurants procuring directly from her. More importantly, Rosa has incredible charisma and a wicked sense of humor - the pint sized providore never failing to put a smile on your face in the little time you spend in her store.

Along with the new premises, Rosa has now introduced an adjoining cafe which serves up a small menu of spanish dishes drawing from some of her products that she has on sale. M and I sampled her spanish ham croquettes before we made our purchases on the weekend. The verdict? As much as I wanted to love the croquettes here, and as much as I wanted Rosa's cafe to be brilliant - it wasn't. The croquettes were, to be honest, a little bland and were a tad dry. This was definitely a far cry from the most incredible croquettes I tasted at Movida in Melbourne which I've previously blogged about. And as friendly as the service was from her family members, it was unfortunately a little clumsy and showed that there were definitely teething problems that needed to be dealt with between the kitchen and front of the house.

But all is forgiven with purchases from Rosa's deli. Her morcilla sausages (or spanish black pudding) is out of this world. Simple pan fry till crispy at home and top with a crispy fried egg for one of the most stunning weekend breakfasts. Or fry up some of her delicious chorizo until you render that delicious paprika spiked oil - toss in a can of chickpeas, a couple of spigs of thyme, thinly sliced red onion and flat leaf parsley. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice and mop up with crusty toasted bread. Yum.

Spanish Flavors
413 Oxford St
Mount Hawthorn

Spicing things up

I have blogged about Arigataya several times before - it is, in the absence of a trip to Japan, the best version of ramen here in Perth. And whilst there are definitely shortcomings that I can choose to pick at in terms of the preparation of its belly pork and the consistency of the ni-tamago, it still ticks alot of boxes - not the least of which is the fact that you can order a free kaedama (an extra portion of noodles to add to your remaining broth)

My favourite variation here is definitely the miso ramen - the broth has great depth and is always served piping hot. And on the subject of hot, Arigataya has recently introduced a spicy version of its ramen variations - a deep red broth which probably looks more lip numbing than it actually is. Delicious and mildly addictive, this will have you slurping on another kaedama before you know it,

Arigataya
62 Roe Street Northbridge

More than toast

I'll admit - whilst I like to romantacize the idea of dining out on a lazy weekend for breakfast, more or often than not this turns out to be sadly disappointing. You see, whilst Perth has no shortage of breakfast spots, the majority are overpriced and offer up bland and boring takes on the first meal of the day.

Cue Toast in East Perth overlooking Claisebrook cove - a small, no frills addition to the popular waterside restaurant strip. Their menu is well priced and adds just enough of a spin to old favourites (think potato, mint and fetta pancakes with smoked salmon, poached eggs sour cream and chives or polenta toast with mushrooms, soft italian cheese and parsley). The service is warm and inviting - definitely an unpretentious breakfast spot that dares to be different and pleases even the breakfast romantics like myself who have fallen in love with it.

Toast
21/60 Royal Street
East Perth WA 6004
(08) 9221 0771

Batavia Corner

One of the things I have come to love as part of falling in love with my now wife, M, is the food of Indonesia where she was born. This was also one of the highlights for me when I visited her folks in Jakarta over a year ago - where I was introduced to some darn tasty stuff that I hadn't previously been exposed to. Indonesian food, like so many other great cuisines, is regional - and with that comes a myriad of interpretations of dishes that each region is fiercely proud of and becomes known for.

One particular dish I fell in love with in Jakarta was a beef soup in a light coconut broth - Soto Daging Betawi. And it was with much delight when M and I stumbled upon one of our now much frequented cheap eats in Perth - Batavia Corner in East Victoria Park. This humble little eatery whips up some of the best sotos (or soups which are commonly eaten with rice in Indonesia) in Perth - with all their soup bases made from scratch (which makes a world of difference in this case). Melt in your mouth beef and tendon pieces in a perfectly seasoned broth with the celery, tomatoes and just a small amount of coconut milk (fresh - not packaged I might add) - I would go so far as to say the version here is actually superior to the one I tasted in Jakarta.

Batavia Corner also does a lovely Nasi Kuning Komplit, which is tumeric scented coconut rice served with sides of fried chicken (of course), urap urap (a delicious coconut vegetable side), crispy crumbed prawns and a very addictive side called kremes (which I can only described as tasting the best crispy bits of KFC). The pempek (fried fish cake in a tangy sauce) here is passable - and is one thing that Jakarta is much more competent at - but serves to satisfy any cravings you may have of this textural dish.

All in all - Batavia is a great spot to visit to sample Indonesian fare - and until I next visit M's hometown to meet her family (and of course to eat myself silly), it is a spot we'll come back to to satisfy our cravings.

Batavia Corner
912 Albany Hwy
East Victoria Park, 6101

When bad is good

Ok I'm back... it has been way too long since my last post and I suppose most readers out there would have either assumed I had gone MIA or lost interest in food altogether... well I can assure you it was DEFINITELY not the latter.

I have over the past few months, married the love of my life, bought and moved into a new house and come to terms with the new found responsibility of being dad to two pups (well they're both something like 90something in human years but in typical parent speak - they'll always be kids to me).

Nevertheless, my point is I am back. And during all that time, while I've stopped dishing up my insights on my fascination with food on the table that is this blog, I have not stopped eating, pondering and photographing.

And so I'll start sharing a few gems that have been uncovered during this hiatus. I will also start by prefacing that M and I had established a new mantra over the past few months to start discovering more of Perth. Yes, it is quite easy to dismiss this sleepy town as a gastronomic ghost town - and in many ways it still is. But what we have decided to do is put away the better part of our pre-conceptions and just venture out to try stuff - regardless of how unlikely we expect to like places we would normally shun away from due to lack of decor, publicity and general appeal.

Shanghai Flavours in Northbridge is one of these places. Dark, dingy, green fluorescent lighting, a kitchen that is clearly audible with constant shouting and decor that can only be described as stuff you wouldn't even sell on eBay, this was one of those places M and I had always tried to avoid as all the signs yelled (or that could equally have been the cooks in the kitchen) at us to stay away. But we stuck with our conviction and ventured in... and boy were we rewarded. What was also surprising was that whilst Shanghai Flavours is obviously meant to excel in Shanghainese cuisine, it was a Szechuan style dish that blew us away. The Szechuan hotpot here with a choice of beef or fish is incredibly addictive. Numbing szechuan peppercorns balanced with a consistently well seasoned broth and chilli oil hits the flavor buttons on your palate in all the right places. And whilst it probably doesn't look like much, just like the restaurant itself, looks in this case are more than deceiving.

Well worth a try (if you can get past the dining environment).

Shanghai Flavours
Shop 2, 375 William Street
Perth, 6000

Tummies get ready to rumble

Perth has always been neglected on the gastronomic map of Australia - and to be completely honest, this has not been without good reason. For too long, this sleepy city has produced an alarmingly large proportion of poorly conceptualised restaurants which underwhelm in service and food but overwhelm in price and lack of interest.

But things are changing - and slowly the city is beginning to awaken from the culinary comatose that has plagued it for much too long. Talented chefs and artisanal food stores are injecting the much needed adrenaline into the veins of Perth's food scene, and with it, energising the people who live in it with the realisation that this city also has much to offer.

And whilst I am under no delusion that Perth has a long way to go in achieving the same food culture that is so prevalent in sister cities like Melbourne... I remain hopeful. So it is with much excitement that I await the arrival of the Good Food and Wine Show right here in my adopted city.

In its third year here in Perth, the event will showcase over 150 food, wine and beverage exhibitors. Of course, a definite huge draw card to the show is also the celebrity chefs that will be "performing" cooking demonstrations over the 3 day event. I say "performing" in inverted commas because whilst I am excited at the prospect of seeing Gary Mehigan, George Colombaris (both of Masterchef fame) and Matt Moran whip up culinary delights with hopefully a bit of humour and wit thrown in, other segment descriptions have already started to make me cringe.

Take Manu Feildel's "Spinning plates" segment - "He is the fun, feisty, fancy Frenchman from My Kitchen Rules, now see him juggling his culinary skills with his circus skills." So he's going to be spinning plates whilst cooking up a meal at the same time... right... NEXT!

Nevertheless, events like the Good Food and Wine Show are well worth supporting... afterall, it's publicity that leads to interest... interest that leads to awareness... and awareness that ultimately leads to choosing and demanding the right food direction for this city.

http://www.goodfoodshow.com.au/index.asp
In Perth July 2-4

Hidden Star

Its always nice to stumble upon the unexpected... to taste something which you totally expect to be only passable, only to find your tastebuds pleasantly surprised. This was the case when M and I decided to pluck up enough courage to have dinner at Bintang cafe, an very non-descript, slightly rough around the edges Indonesian restaurant in East Vic Park. We are both fans of the slightly cleaner looking Batavia cafe around the corner which serves really spot on Indonesian sotos (or soup) and have often wondered about its poorer cousin just around the corner.

Don't get me wrong - not everything is good here - most of what we had ordered tasted at best ordinary... the pempek (Indonesian fried fish cake) was too doughy and had an accompanying sauce that lacked the tang that normally makes this dish very addictive. The satays here were a little too overcooked and burnt, leaving an unpleasant bitter taste despite being smothered in peanut sauce.

Things were not looking good... until we tasted the home made Mie Ayam (or simply fresh egg noodles with a chicken and mushroom topping). Simple... yes. Tasty... very much so. The texture of the home made noodles was great - firm to bite and perfectly seasoned with the basic toppings. Nothing fancy here... just well made, well seasoned noodles... Coupled with the home made kickass sambals on offer here.. this was unexpectedly delicious.

Our adventure into a meal at Bintang (which incidentally translates to "star" in Bahasa Indonesia) was an unexpected surprise... and this is one hidden star where we'll probably keep coming back to for a cheap noodle fix.

Bintang Cafe
12/910 Albany Hwy, East Victoria Park

Red Cabbage - So close yet so far

Red Cabbage has built up a very strong reputation over the past 2 years for serving inventive modern British food right here in Perth. And having driven and walked past it almost everyday (its literally a stone's throw away from my apartment), it had up to this point always been one of those places that was so close to home it didn't seem like a priority to visit.

But a gathering of friends from overseas recently gave us the perfect opportunity to sample what has been raved about by reviewers as one of the top 5 restaurants in Perth. Naturally, we proceeded to Red Cabbage with fairly high expectations.

The menu on first glance was impressive - inventive, playful combinations by a chef who obviously is aware of how things read on paper can really make a difference. We were of course excited and ordered a few entrees which read beautifully - the roasted pork belly on watermelon relish , the roasted quail with green papaya salad and tempura oysters topped with a crispy potato chip and aioli.

The result? Beautifully presented food that didn't quite hit the mark in execution. The pork belly was a stunning looking dish - but seriously lacked flavour and to be completely honestly - needed a bit more cooking time to either render a bit of the fat from this prized cut or at least achieve a melt in your mouth texture in the protein.

The oysters - whilst tasty - were nothing out of the ordinary - the potato chip on top was completely unnecessary and in my mind, cheapened the dish (as did the bright blue salt the oysters were garnished on).

The quail was without a doubt, overcooked - which meant it was dry and chewy. Accompanied by a salad that was much too acidic - this dish simply did not work for me.

I could go on to describe the range of main courses we sampled but they were, to put it bluntly, forgettable and not something that I will be coming back anytime soon for. The crumbed braised beef brisket in my beef dish however, was something I will remember for a while to come - purely because it was so dry and unpleasant that I was a little shocked that how different my dining experience was compared to the rave reviews that this restaurant has been receiving.

Perhaps they had a bad night - perhaps sometimes hype gets in the way of honest opinion - but for me, Red Cabbage is one of those places that is so close - yet still very far from what it could be.

Red Cabbage

49/15 Labouchere Road

South Perth

Ha-Lu-Lujiah!

We had the joy of celebrating my mum's birthday (who happened to be in town this week for a visit with her closest friends) last night at probably one of my favourite places to eat in Perth - Ha Lu - a Japanese izakaya style restaurant. As usual, I over-ordered and over-indulged. But everything was so perfectly executed that what seemed like a constant flow of beautifully presented clean tasting dishes was a true joy. Highlights included the kakuni pictured above (uber tender stewed pork belly) and the warm japanese salad with roasted vegetables.

We also ordered an interesting twist on the very homely dish of nikujaga (typically a hot pot of sliced beef onion and potatoes). Instead of the traditional simmered dish, Ha Lu has a revamped version that takes the form of a crispy creamy potato dumpling stuffed with sliced beef and topped with sliced onions and a soy dashi broth that is poured at the table.

The tuna and poached onsen style egg was a delicious combination of flavours and textures with tender sashimi tuna, crispy wanton crisps and and a creamy poached egg.

The wagyu beef tataki here is brilliant - melt in your mouth slivers of wagyu fillet served with seasonal root vegetables and an addictive ponzu sauce. The other beef dish ordered however was the only disappointment of the night. Diced wagyu beef steak with yuzu kosho pepper whilst sounding unbelievable on the menu, was overcooked and dry - probably due to the cubes being diced too small and a real letdown to an otherwise flawless meal.

Nevertheless - Ha Lu continues to be probably the best Japanese restaurant to eat in town. I left the restaurant content, very full, and looking forward to my next visit to sample new dishes introduced to the menu (given I had pretty much ordered everything in one seating).

Ha Lu
Shop4 / 401 Oxford Street, Mt Hawthorn

Putting the Extra in Ordinary...

I recently blogged about a new ramen bar in Northbridge, Perth. And whilst I was not overly impressed with the broth that was served with their homemade noodles - I was more than addicted to the toppings that came with each bowl - most especially the roast pork or chashu. Literally melt in your mouth pork belly that has been braised to perfection in a very delicious concotion of what is most likely soy sauce, sake, mirin, sugar and ginger - really special stuff.

And so, in a stroke of genius (at least I like to think so), I visted Arigataya ramen again and ordered a bowl of japanese curry rice (kare raisu) - with... wait for it, the aforementioned roast pork as a topping.

The curry here on its own was very generic and unfortunately made from a packet roux that tasted all too familiar (we rely on this stuff at home when we're too lazy or time pressed to whip a dinner up). However, paired with the delightfully tasty roast pork - this was one very satisfying lunch - and cheap too!

Just goes to show... sometimes the ordinary just needs a dose of something extra to make it oh so special...

Arigataya Ramen
Roe Street
Northbridge, Perth

Sweety and Savoury

I love the contrast of sweet and savoury flavours - when perfectly balanced, its an addictive combination that is strangely moreish. A pumpkin risotto with crispy salty prosciutto... a juicy ripe tomato with a sprinkling of sea salt... or in the case of a brilliant breakfast dish - crispy bacon on french toast drizzled with maple syrup.

We found ourselves at Deli Chicchi in Mount Claremont over the weekend for a lazy breakfast with friends we had not caught up for a while. A beautiful spot for a lazy weekend breakfast or brunch - it even has a section dedicated to cookbooks and produce you can purchase while you're waiting for your food.

This very cool breakfast spot perched on a street corner has simply but very tasty options for breakfast. From the zucchini and haloumi fritters to the roasted tomato, mozzarella and avocado bruschetta.

Oh - and of course the highlight of the day - the aforementioned french toast. Crispy bacon, fluffy french toast, warm maple syrup - yum!

Deli Chicchi

Strickland Street

Mount Claremont

Arigato! Arigataya

I have had a soft spot for ramen ever since tasting greatness in the tonkotsu ramen of Ichiran in Fukuoka last year. Sadly, a rameniac would find it hard to satisfy his or her craving here in Perth as there are less than a handful of places where this is served.

So it was with great excitement when I heard about Arigataya ramen which had opened its doors to noodle lovers just this week. With a reputation of having noodles made fresh on the premises, I was keen to slurp out this joint to see if there was hope yet for satisfying a ramen craving right here in Western Australia.

The menu here is basic - you choose from either the standard ramen with a chicken/pork bone broth (with a choice of either shio or shoyu flavour) or tsukemen (ramen served with a dipping sauce on the side). For a few dollars extra, you get to "upsize" your condiments - with ni-tamago (a briliant way of cooking an egg with a fully cooked white but a slightly runny and creamy yolk centre) and extra slabs of the house made charsiu (roasted pork belly).

The verdict? The broth lacked the depth of flavour I love in a good ramen broth and tasted a little generic. The noodles had good texture but seemed to impart a slightly alkaline flavour to the broth which was a little overpowering.

But the stars here are clearly the condiments. The ni-tamago was cooked to perfection - beautifully set egg white and a creamy deep orange yolk. The charsiu was nothing short of brilliant - delightfully "melt in your mouth" pork belly char-grilled on the outside to achieve a fantastic combination of flavour and texture.

Ok - so maybe Arigataya wasn't the life changing noodle experience I had hoped for - but there's enough goodness in the bowl for me to come back for more. And let's be honest - another decent option to satisfy a frequent ramen craving is something I'm happy to say "arigato!" for.

Arigataya ramen
Roe St, Perth

Flippin Good

I'll just come out and say it - I love Flipside burgers. Ever since having discovered the tiny gourmet burger joint in Fremantle over 3 years ago, M and I have visited this brilliant spot over and over again for their uber tasty burgers and their to die for chunky chips.

It actually is quite surprising that I haven't blogged about this not so secret gem of a place given that its one thing that I always seem to have a craving for and one that always hits the spot.

Since then - Flipside has expanded and started a new spot in yet another leafy Perth suburb of Wembley. Same burgers (although I must admit the Freo joint constructs their burgers better), same char grilled goodness and the same happiness that it brings me everytime I visit. To top things off, both locations are now strategically situated beside very cool bars (Mrs Brown in Freo and the Stanley in Wembley) where you can order a drink and have your burger delivered to you to enjoy in very cool digs.

My personal favourite is the Blue Train (char grilled 95% fat free beef patty topped with lettuce, tomato and garnished a generous crumbling of blue cheese sandwiched between fantastic homemade buns) with the addition of crispy bacon. Be sure to order a side of generously cut crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, chunky chips. Wash it down with an ice cold beer from the bar next door - and you're in burger heaven... flippin fantastic.

Flipside Burger Bar
http://www.flipsideburgerbar.com.au/

A moment of silence...

One of the most shocking discoveries in the weekend that just passed was that one of my all time favourite casual chinese eateries in Perth has, or at least appears to have, shut down very suddenly.

Hong Kong BBQ or 顺德 as it is affectionately known by the local chinese has been around forever. And by forever I mean ever since I first arrived in Perth as a student almost 15 years ago now.

For as long as I can remember, this unpretentious, extremely efficient and welcoming chinese restaurant has been a dining home to my friends and I. We found comfort in their delicious beef brisket braised to melting perfection in earthen claypots, marvelled at their large portions of crispy roast pork, were thrilled by the ridiculously moreish wok fried snow crab in a salted egg yolk batter and most importantly, became hopelessly addicted to their house made chilli oil (a potent blend of fried dried chillis, garlic and other secret condiments).

We had our Sunday lunches, late weeknight gatherings, after movie supper catch ups, birthday celebrations even in this very popular establishment... this place was as much about the food as it was the memories that it injected into our lives. The lovely owners that ran the restaurant were always extremely warm and friendly - and having visited this place countless times in the past 15 years, I had become a familiar face that they always acknowledged with a welcoming smile. My only regret is that I had never bothered to get to know them on a first name basis.

And as I take a moment of silence to reflect on the (potential I hope) possibility of losing 顺德 - I realise that just like the people closest to you in life, you should never take their presence for granted... I mean I had never even thought of including this old favourite on this blog until now.

My only hope is that the owners had decided to take time out to renovate the restaurant's premises... and in the process allowed me to appreciate this restaurant for what it really has been - a big part of my dining life here.

Kiri Take 2

I have previously raved about Kiri Japanese restaurant which is nestled in the quiet neighbourhood of Shenton Park. This tiny yet elegant restaurant is run by Taka and Noriko, genuinely nice people who have a passion for what they do. A recent visit back proved that they are still feeding this passion as well as lovers of Japanese food who keep coming back for more.

Aside from the standard menu of their most requested items, Kiri also has a changing seasonal menu which reflects the fresh produce that varies from month to month. More often than not, it also includes Taka's new creations which range from the simplest (like cream crab croquettes topped with crispy lotus root) to the more elaborate (a beautifully presented bento box of unagi, grilled duck breast wrapped around grilled asparagus, grilled sablefish and nasu dengaku).

Kiri does well in simple but well cooked Japanese fare that steps beyond your teriyaki glazes (although it also does these perfectly well) and presents beautifully. What is even more impressive is that Taka manages to whip up these beautiful creations in the tiniest of kitchens. I was amazed at the constant stream of takeaway orders that came throughout dinner service and how the kitchen was able to keep up the pace.

It's great to see a deserving place do well - remember to book in advance.

The good... the ugly... and the bloody tasty

I've never been to Mexico - and I'm not sure if I'll get there anytime soon. But there's something festive about the idea of Mexican food - nothing pretentious, spiced up, often very messy and when done right - oh so tasty.

So its sad that Mexican food often gets a bad rap with the cheap and nasty versions served up the world over. From greasy and sloppy quesadillas to stale and crusty tacos - Mexican food has also become associated with stuff you devour when you've had too many a cheap margarita and its the only way in which you can get the maximum grease in the shortest amount of time to ease the pain.

And so it was a pleasant surprise when M and I stumbled upon the Flying Taco, a tiny Mexican diner tucked in North Perth for a late Saturday lunch (no we weren't drinking heavily the night before).

Everything is made from scratch here - from the delicious smelling tortilla to the addictive range of salsas. We ordered two burritos, a carne asada (grilled sliced steak marinated in lime juice, garlic and oregano) and the carnitas (slow cooked pork with grilled fresh pineapple). Both were excellent and were stuffed with delicious fresh ingredients as well as refried beans and Mexican red rice.

Nothing fancy here at the Flying Taco - as a matter of fact you might walk straight past it and head to the buzzing gourmet foodstore and cafes just next door. But drop by and be rewarded with some genuinely good food.

And whilst I probably won't get the privilege of visiting Mexico anytime soon, making amigos with its food here in Perth isn't such a bad substitute in the mean time.

The Flying Taco
40 Angove Street
North Perth
www.flyingtaco.com.au

More than meets the eye

We had the pleasure of dining at Table 78 for dinner recently, having booked our group of 8 into one of the private dining rooms in this charming restaurant that has found a home in a row of heritage listed houses in West Perth.

The setting here is elegant but simple - relying on the character of the high ceilings, wooden floor boards and vintage furniture to set the tone. And so is it with the food here.

Pared back to simple, uncomplicated menu descriptions with honestly tasty dishes cooked and seasoned well, the team at table 78 have managed to successfully pull off the concept of simple fine dining.

We started off with some seriously fantastic tempura oysters topped with chilli jam perched gently on top pickled cucumber in its shell. The zingy vinegar in the cucumber cut nicely through creamy and crispy oysters... balance of flavours and texture - me like.

We also had the chickpea battered prawns, served with rocket and a harissa mayonnaise. Nothing fancy, not particularly photogenic (hence its absence from the pictures), but very tasty.

For mains we opted for the specials for the night. The fish of the day was super crispy skinned barramundi fillets on a bed of chickpea and spinach.

We also had the roasted pork striploin marinated in fennel seeds, served with roasted beetroot jam with a side quenelle of parsnip and wholeseed mustard mash. This was probably the only disappointing dish of the night. Whilst the combination of flavours was spot on, the thick cut of lean pork was quite dry and let down an otherwise impressive looking dish.

The standout for the night however was definitely the braised wagyu beefcheeks served with roasted baby carrots and leeks on top of the ultimate potato puree (so creamy it hurts). This was perfectly executed and the gelatinous cheeks a true joy to eat.

Table 78 has an equally simple but delicious dessert menu. The hazlenut creme brulee with short bread was delightful, as was the chocolate marquise sandwiched in a pistachio biscuit.

The menu at Table 78 won't surprise - what you see is what you get. Its the execution of the dishes and the clever balance of textures, flavours and ingredients that will surprise and delight. Coupled with attentive service and an unpretentious setting, this is one restaurant that I'll definitely be returning to.