Melbourne Bites #10: It's all in the name

This fine dining restaurant makes no secret about what it serves with its choice of name. Straightforward, traditional Italian fare. The smart and elegant dining room is popular with the corporate types who work in the office building which it is housed in and has an air of understated intimacy.

We started with a classic – Parma ham wrapped around succulent rockmelon. Salty, sweet – superb. We then proceeded with oxtail ragu with hand made pici, slow cooked tripe served with creamy polenta and a wagyu tenderloin served with mixed mushrooms. For mains, our table had the swordfish, porterhouse and a Ligurian fish stew chockfull of fresh seafood. The food here is competent but we were let down on a few occasions by the service and attention to detail (we had to ask repeatedly for a dessert menu and were not offered more wine when our glasses were empty).

But all was forgiven with a sweet ending to the evening – the desserts here are pretty darn good. We had a magnificent tiramisu and a done just right panna cotta with mixed berries compote. All in all, the Italian will do its namesake proud if it smooths out a few service issues in the dining room.

The Italian

101 Collins Street

Melbourne Victoria