foodoalbum

Clarences - Haute bar food

2011-07-24T15:50:00.004+08:00

Being just a short drive away from our neighbourhood, Clarences bar has become a recent favourite haunt for M and I to pop in for a drink or two. The bar itself has become a bit of a hot spot amidst the sea of choices you find yourself wading through in the bustling suburb of Mount Lawley. This despite having a non-descript entrance that doesn't scream out for attention.

The interior of this bar/bistro is uber cool - eclectic artwork, comfy dining booths and an awesome courtyard out the back that is just perfect in the warmer months of the year. The drinks list here is also pretty interesting, with an interesting selection of beers and probably one of the largest lists of ciders I have seen around Perth.

We popped in on the weekend for a late lunch and were pretty excited at what read like a very innovative menu. The flavour combinations sounded clever and put a twist on typical bar favourites. And so we ordered with much anticipation.

We started off with the Crispy baldivis rabbit legs with aioli. This was pleasant enough - crispy crumbed rabbit legs simply seasoned on top of shaved fennel and aioli. I would personally have preferred a dressed bit of fennel as this element of the plate fairly dry. The aioli itself also lacked punch - and would have rounded off the dish with a tad more creaminess and salt.

We also ordered the crab, confit chicken wings and celeriac remoulade. This presented nicely - the confit chicken wings were tasty and as lowbrow as this sounds, reminded me of spam (probably from the pork fat it was rendered in) - not that this is a bad thing. The sides were actually combined - not what I had expected given the punctuation (not to mention the confit chicken wings) that interjected between the words "crab" and "celeriac remoulade". This however was tasty enough. The dish however needed texture - Perhaps a crispening of the chicken wings post confit or even substituting celeriac with an apple slaw instead would have made this a more memorable dish.

We finished off with the Clarences cheeseburger which came with a side of hand cut chips. As "cheesy" as it sounds, this was probably the dish we enjoyed the most. A simple house made brioche bun with coarsely grounded beef, just melted cheese and a bit of sliced pickle for acidity. The hand cut chips were delicious and went down well with our cider. The only gripe I would have on this was presentation - maybe it comes with wanting food to photograph well but this dish had lots of yellow (think brioche bun, cheese, hand cut chips) and was screaming out for a bit of green to spike its visual appeal. But heck - at least it tasted good.

All up - Clarences is a great spot to pop in for a drink and a casual bite to eat. The menu is inventive but some tweaks in execution and a a bit of thoughtfulness in how ingredients come together on the plate could go a long way in making it a brilliant gastrobar in this city of ours.

Clarences
566 Beaufort Street
Mount Lawley

(definitely)Crispy (sorta)Mexican roast pork tortillas

2011-06-06T23:29:00.005+08:00

My current food fad is a new found fascination for Mexican cuisine - no... not Tex Mex "Gag-a-mole" microwaved cheese-caked nachos... I'm talking about the zingy, spicy, fresh and complex flavours of Mexico.

I guess my feelings towards the things I used to hate about what I thought was a representation of Mexican food (think dodgy kebabs dressed as burritos, the aforementioned nacho disasters, etc) are exactly the same emotions towards the misrepresentations of Chinese food that make me cringe (I don't want to come across as a food snob but special fried rice and combination chow mein aren't exactly special or a sought after combo in China).

And so - in my journey towards discovering the flavours of ol' Mexicana, I whipped up my interpretation of that cuisine over the weekend in the form of a super crispy roast pork belly marinated in fire roasted green chilli, fresh coriander, lime juice/zest, garlic and olive oil.

In keeping with theme, I decided to serve this in a tortilla (store bought - I am only an el novice!) topped with home made guacamole (pimped up with fresh lime, coriander and chopped tomato) and a fire roasted red capsicum salsa. The flavours worked incredibly well together - the kick from the heat of the chillis and the tang of the limes balanced beautifully with the sweetness of the capsicums. And of course - the super crispy crackling on the pork belly added an addictive textural element to creaminess of the avocado in this comforting dish.

As far as food fads go - this one is definitely here to stay - just as I know that there is hope beyond the thick battered sweet and sour pork atrocities that are so prevalent in Chinese restaurants all over the world - my dream is that I will find myself in the streets of Mexico one day laughing with a few amigos at those nasty nachos. Viva la Mexico!

And they're back again (Free double passes giveaway!)

2011-06-06T12:22:00.006+08:00

It seems like almost a year ago... ok - it has almost exactly been a year ago when I waxed lyrical about the exciting prospect of the Good Food & Wine Show arriving into the sleepy city of Perth. And with that news came the reminder of my love hate relationship with this city that has so much offer but is just so stuck in its old ways... and don't get me started on all things unrelated to the food scene because that could be the start of a whole new other blog.

Nevertheless, it's events like the GF&WS that remind the hopefuls in this city of ours that there is more to Perth than overpriced, lacklustre plates... that there are purveyors and restaurateurs out there that are proud to be West Australian but aren't ashamed to admit we need change. And I'm so excited to say that as quick as the past year seems to have flown by, Perth HAS experienced change. I only have to look to my neighbourhood to see the opening of two highly successful Melbournesque cafes,the pending arrival of a gourmet deli and very soon, two exciting new small bars.

And so, with the marking of the second post to encourage readers to attend this year's GF&WS from 15-17 July 2011 at the Perth Conventre and Exhibition Centre, I am proud as punch to offer one lucky reader two free tickets to this worthwhile event (reality TV celebrity chefs included). All you have to do is leave a commment against this entry on what is the one change (be it restaurant, cafe, new ingredient to the markets, etc) you have experienced in the Perth food scene over the past year that has given you the most joy and hope for our city. The winner will be announced on this blog on the 20th June (Monday) so check back in to claim your prize!

Good luck!

www.goodfoodshow.com.au

It just ain't the same

2011-05-27T23:04:00.003+08:00

I have just returned from a trip from Singapore where, as usual, the itinerary consisted of the next destination to eat, the tight timeslots for snacking and a whole lotta satisfaction.

And whilst it can often be easy to forget the food that you miss whilst living in a different country to the one you grew up in, I have found with every visit a clear reminder that some things will always be better in Asia... full stop.

One of my favourite regular haunts of late everytime I am in Singapore is a coffeeshop just off the hustle and bustle of Chinatown. Whilst seemingly like just another of the many coffeeshops in Singapore on the outside, this eatery on a quiet street filled with loads of character boasts some of the most kickass char siew wanton mein (barbecued pork wanton noodles) ever... and I mean kick ass.

As a popular reality cooking show currently airing would describe, the "hero" of the dish here is without doubt the char siew. Perfectly sweet and caramelised with just the right amount of marbling in the melt in your mouth pork, this is truly something special that you realise will never be replicated in Australia.

The noodles here are also served al dente (which gets a big tick in my books) in a dark sweet soy sauce - perfectly balanced with a mild but savoury sambal chilli. The only let down would probably be the wantons here - not particularly memorable with not a whole lot of flavour... but then again, with the "hero" of this dish being so damn good - there'll be plenty to write home about before you return to your adopted country to realise, quite sadly, that some things will just never be the same.

Foong Kee Coffeeshop
6 Keong Saik Road
Singapore

That Little Mexican Place

2011-03-19T20:12:00.003+08:00

Mexican food outside of the States and of course... Mexico... has a pretty bad rep due to the confusion with tex mex cuisine - consisting usually of sloopy greasy nachos and soggy burritos. Of course, just like good chinese food isn't about satay chicken and mongolian lamb, real Mexican food is nothing like tex mex has made it out to be. Quite the opposite, authentic Mexican food is fresh, light, complex and darn right exciting.

That Little Mexican Place in North Perth (and now also in Vic Park)... is exactly as its name describes.. a small eatery that serves up honest Mexican food. We dropped by for a lazy weekend lunch - crab meat empanadas, freshly made tacos with shredded pork and salsa verde, shredded goat tamale and a beautiful albondigas in chipotle and tomato salsa. Everything was fresh, zingy and so exciting to eat. The empanadas were a highlight - the beautiful corn pastry encasing perfectly seasoned crab meat. The albondigas were also incredibly addictive - mexican meatballs served piping hot in a chipotle and tomato sauce - smoky, rich and so moreish.

The food at TLMP is very well executed - and for those who may not have discovered what real Mexican food is all about, it is a fantastic place to visit to taste what I think is truly one of the most underrated cuisines in the world.

That Little Mexican Place
382 Fitzgerald Street
North Perth

When close is almost enough

2011-02-27T23:05:00.004+08:00

Let's face it. Hawker fare will never be the same here in Perth as it is in South East Asia. Not only are prices phenomenally ridiculous here, you constantly find yourself desperately seeking that familiar flavor of a well cooked hawker dish.

Enter Newton Circle which is perched in, of all places, a food court in the city. This long running establishment is packed during the office lunch hour and offers a range of hawker items at reasonable prices (for Perth city's crazy standards).

The most popular items here are clearly the Char kway teow and Hainanese chicken rice. The former is more akin to a Singaporean version with a slight dousing of sweet soy sauce with the addition of lap cheong (Chinese sausage) and the latter is more Malaysian in flavor with a more savoury soy dressing.

The verdict? As cliched as it sounds, it definitely is not as good as what you can get in most hawker centres in Singapore or Malaysia... at literally a fraction of the price. But it works to at least satisfy a craving. The Char kway teow has that sometimes elusive charred "wok hei" flavor which is a good indicator for any great wok fried dish. The seasoning however lacks depth and body which you find it the gutsy versions you might be used to.

The chicken rice is generous but the meat is definitely on the tough side (which is always made worse by most chicken rice establishments here that microwave the chicken before serving). The rice also lacks the ginger and garlic hit you expect when you tuck into this iconic dish. What is pretty good here is the chilli sauce - laced with lemon juice, it bears some resemblance to the lime spiked versions you get in Singapore.

All in all, Newton Circle is not a bad spot to visit when you want to find the familiar - it won't stop you yearning for the real stuff... but at least it helps jolt the food memory till the next time you find it.

Newton Circle
4/207 Murray Street
(Sidewalk cafe on the top floor of Carillon arcade)

Panko Pangritata

2011-02-27T22:32:00.002+08:00

For dinner tonight, M and I whipped up a quick but very tasty spaghetti with pan roasted field mushrooms, chilli, thyme and parmesan cheese. But something was missing... and so, I decided to add a textural dimension to our pasta dish - pangritata.

Pangritata is basically a poor man's parmesan born from Southern Italy. Breadcrumbs toasted in olive oil, garlic, chilli and seasoned with sea salt... the humble ingredients add crunch, loads of flavour and lots of fun to a basic spaghetti dish.

But what was special about my pangritata tonight was that because I didn't have any leftover crusty bread which I would normally process into breadcrumbs, and also frankly because I was too lazy to clean up, I used, in a stroke of rare genius (well to me at least it was), leftover panko I had in the pantry. And the results were surprisingly good. The panko crumbs crispened up perfectly and were so easy to make. Tossed through our pasta dinner, it turned something something so simple into something truly special.

Eggstatic

2011-02-06T10:25:00.002+08:00

Ok - a word of warning to egg haters and vegans - this post may offend. And whilst I fully respect that everyone has their preferences on what they eat and equally what they don't, I have never been a closet eggnophile - I LOVE EGGS. There is something so rich and comforting about perfectly cooked eggs that is just so satisfying. And as much as some may try to deny it - I firmly believe that an egg makes a simple savoury dish look (and taste) fabulous.

I recently discovered a fail proof way to cook ni-tamago eggs - probably one of the best ways to enjoy the tastiest free range eggs you can get your hands on. Ni-tamago refers to the eggs that are most commonly found in ramen shops all over Japan - just set egg whites enveloping a creamy, gelatinous egg yolk that is still slightly ever so runny. Simply cook eggs straight out from the fridge in lightly boiling (not vigorously such that the eggs are tumbling around in the pot)water for approximately 7 minutes (for medium sized eggs). Remove and drop into an ice bath laced with malt vinegar (this apparently helps in the peeling process). Leave for approx 1/2 hour until the egg is completely cool - peel and eat.

They are fantastic paired with, as pictured above, Bovril noodles which I have previously blogged about, with Rosa's morcilla sausages on toast or simply by themselves.

Delicious.

Spanish Flavours

2011-02-05T22:22:00.002+08:00

For those of you out there who have previously discovered the incredible chorizo at Spanish Flavors, previously in Wembley, Rosa and her little deli have moved to the Leederville/Mount Hawthorn border.

Rosa is a bit of a celebrity here in Perth - her chorizo sausages are widely regarded as the best in town with many restaurants procuring directly from her. More importantly, Rosa has incredible charisma and a wicked sense of humor - the pint sized providore never failing to put a smile on your face in the little time you spend in her store.

Along with the new premises, Rosa has now introduced an adjoining cafe which serves up a small menu of spanish dishes drawing from some of her products that she has on sale. M and I sampled her spanish ham croquettes before we made our purchases on the weekend. The verdict? As much as I wanted to love the croquettes here, and as much as I wanted Rosa's cafe to be brilliant - it wasn't. The croquettes were, to be honest, a little bland and were a tad dry. This was definitely a far cry from the most incredible croquettes I tasted at Movida in Melbourne which I've previously blogged about. And as friendly as the service was from her family members, it was unfortunately a little clumsy and showed that there were definitely teething problems that needed to be dealt with between the kitchen and front of the house.

But all is forgiven with purchases from Rosa's deli. Her morcilla sausages (or spanish black pudding) is out of this world. Simple pan fry till crispy at home and top with a crispy fried egg for one of the most stunning weekend breakfasts. Or fry up some of her delicious chorizo until you render that delicious paprika spiked oil - toss in a can of chickpeas, a couple of spigs of thyme, thinly sliced red onion and flat leaf parsley. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice and mop up with crusty toasted bread. Yum.

Spanish Flavors
413 Oxford St
Mount Hawthorn

Spicing things up

2011-01-27T22:37:00.002+08:00

I have blogged about Arigataya several times before - it is, in the absence of a trip to Japan, the best version of ramen here in Perth. And whilst there are definitely shortcomings that I can choose to pick at in terms of the preparation of its belly pork and the consistency of the ni-tamago, it still ticks alot of boxes - not the least of which is the fact that you can order a free kaedama (an extra portion of noodles to add to your remaining broth)

My favourite variation here is definitely the miso ramen - the broth has great depth and is always served piping hot. And on the subject of hot, Arigataya has recently introduced a spicy version of its ramen variations - a deep red broth which probably looks more lip numbing than it actually is. Delicious and mildly addictive, this will have you slurping on another kaedama before you know it,

Arigataya
62 Roe Street Northbridge

More than toast

2011-01-24T23:25:00.007+08:00

I'll admit - whilst I like to romantacize the idea of dining out on a lazy weekend for breakfast, more or often than not this turns out to be sadly disappointing. You see, whilst Perth has no shortage of breakfast spots, the majority are overpriced and offer up bland and boring takes on the first meal of the day.

Cue Toast in East Perth overlooking Claisebrook cove - a small, no frills addition to the popular waterside restaurant strip. Their menu is well priced and adds just enough of a spin to old favourites (think potato, mint and fetta pancakes with smoked salmon, poached eggs sour cream and chives or polenta toast with mushrooms, soft italian cheese and parsley). The service is warm and inviting - definitely an unpretentious breakfast spot that dares to be different and pleases even the breakfast romantics like myself who have fallen in love with it.

Toast
21/60 Royal Street
East Perth WA 6004
(08) 9221 0771

Batavia Corner

2010-12-12T09:00:00.003+08:00

One of the things I have come to love as part of falling in love with my now wife, M, is the food of Indonesia where she was born. This was also one of the highlights for me when I visited her folks in Jakarta over a year ago - where I was introduced to some darn tasty stuff that I hadn't previously been exposed to. Indonesian food, like so many other great cuisines, is regional - and with that comes a myriad of interpretations of dishes that each region is fiercely proud of and becomes known for.

One particular dish I fell in love with in Jakarta was a beef soup in a light coconut broth - Soto Daging Betawi. And it was with much delight when M and I stumbled upon one of our now much frequented cheap eats in Perth - Batavia Corner in East Victoria Park. This humble little eatery whips up some of the best sotos (or soups which are commonly eaten with rice in Indonesia) in Perth - with all their soup bases made from scratch (which makes a world of difference in this case). Melt in your mouth beef and tendon pieces in a perfectly seasoned broth with the celery, tomatoes and just a small amount of coconut milk (fresh - not packaged I might add) - I would go so far as to say the version here is actually superior to the one I tasted in Jakarta.

Batavia Corner also does a lovely Nasi Kuning Komplit, which is tumeric scented coconut rice served with sides of fried chicken (of course), urap urap (a delicious coconut vegetable side), crispy crumbed prawns and a very addictive side called kremes (which I can only described as tasting the best crispy bits of KFC). The pempek (fried fish cake in a tangy sauce) here is passable - and is one thing that Jakarta is much more competent at - but serves to satisfy any cravings you may have of this textural dish.

All in all - Batavia is a great spot to visit to sample Indonesian fare - and until I next visit M's hometown to meet her family (and of course to eat myself silly), it is a spot we'll come back to to satisfy our cravings.

Batavia Corner
912 Albany Hwy
East Victoria Park, 6101

When bad is good

2010-11-30T21:48:00.006+08:00

Ok I'm back... it has been way too long since my last post and I suppose most readers out there would have either assumed I had gone MIA or lost interest in food altogether... well I can assure you it was DEFINITELY not the latter.

I have over the past few months, married the love of my life, bought and moved into a new house and come to terms with the new found responsibility of being dad to two pups (well they're both something like 90something in human years but in typical parent speak - they'll always be kids to me).

Nevertheless, my point is I am back. And during all that time, while I've stopped dishing up my insights on my fascination with food on the table that is this blog, I have not stopped eating, pondering and photographing.

And so I'll start sharing a few gems that have been uncovered during this hiatus. I will also start by prefacing that M and I had established a new mantra over the past few months to start discovering more of Perth. Yes, it is quite easy to dismiss this sleepy town as a gastronomic ghost town - and in many ways it still is. But what we have decided to do is put away the better part of our pre-conceptions and just venture out to try stuff - regardless of how unlikely we expect to like places we would normally shun away from due to lack of decor, publicity and general appeal.

Shanghai Flavours in Northbridge is one of these places. Dark, dingy, green fluorescent lighting, a kitchen that is clearly audible with constant shouting and decor that can only be described as stuff you wouldn't even sell on eBay, this was one of those places M and I had always tried to avoid as all the signs yelled (or that could equally have been the cooks in the kitchen) at us to stay away. But we stuck with our conviction and ventured in... and boy were we rewarded. What was also surprising was that whilst Shanghai Flavours is obviously meant to excel in Shanghainese cuisine, it was a Szechuan style dish that blew us away. The Szechuan hotpot here with a choice of beef or fish is incredibly addictive. Numbing szechuan peppercorns balanced with a consistently well seasoned broth and chilli oil hits the flavor buttons on your palate in all the right places. And whilst it probably doesn't look like much, just like the restaurant itself, looks in this case are more than deceiving.

Well worth a try (if you can get past the dining environment).

Shanghai Flavours
Shop 2, 375 William Street
Perth, 6000

Flavour combinations - Bovril braised pork belly

2010-06-07T22:42:00.009+08:00

It is a well know and self publicised fact that I adore the dark, sticky, savoury goodness of Bovril. A rather old fashioned ingredient that is known as a condiment to stir into porridge, a convenient instant soup base or in the case of my family, stirred through instant noodles topped with finely sliced spring onions and crispy shallots - eaten with a runny fried egg... (I'm tempted to whip up some right now just thinking about it!)

But for too long this ingredient packed with bovine goodness has been one dimensional for me - always associated with a quick noodle fix. But in one of those moments just this weekend where all you think about is what to cook for your next meal, I began to wonder... surely, something that tasted so good must be good for something else... surely there must be a way of reproducing the flavours that work so well into something else that I adore that will... dare I say... make it taste even more amazing?

Enter the pork belly. I HEART pork belly... a hugely underrated cut that promises melt in your mouth goodness from the thin layers of fat that render to transform into an almost gelatinous consistency... perfect in a slow braise or even roasted to crispen the skin for perfect crackling.

And so - it would make complete sense to marry the beefy, savoury richness of Bovril with the sweet, butteriness of the pork belly... and complete sense it was! I marinated the pork belly overnight in a marinade made from Bovril (of course), mirin, cracked pepper, bay leaves, garlic and shallots (which were grated in).

I then pan seared the pork belly on all sides and poured in the marinade, a little sake to deglaze the by now sticky, gooey pan, and a touch of water. I then threw in a few whole shallots and smashed garlic cloves to simmer with the pork belly for about 45 mins on a low to medium heat.

45 minutes later, the pork belly is removed and cut into bite sized chunks. The stewing liquid is reduced to a syrupy consistency and knob of butter is thrown in to finish the sauce (butter tastes AMAZING with Bovril) and to give it a beautiful gloss.

After plating up, smother the pork belly with very finely sliced spring onions and crispy fried shallots. Eat with piping hot steamed rice and a fried runny egg to pay homage to the way Bovril has always been eaten in my family.

I promise you'll love this recipe.

Tummies get ready to rumble

2010-05-30T18:03:00.006+08:00

Perth has always been neglected on the gastronomic map of Australia - and to be completely honest, this has not been without good reason. For too long, this sleepy city has produced an alarmingly large proportion of poorly conceptualised restaurants which underwhelm in service and food but overwhelm in price and lack of interest.

But things are changing - and slowly the city is beginning to awaken from the culinary comatose that has plagued it for much too long. Talented chefs and artisanal food stores are injecting the much needed adrenaline into the veins of Perth's food scene, and with it, energising the people who live in it with the realisation that this city also has much to offer.

And whilst I am under no delusion that Perth has a long way to go in achieving the same food culture that is so prevalent in sister cities like Melbourne... I remain hopeful. So it is with much excitement that I await the arrival of the Good Food and Wine Show right here in my adopted city.

In its third year here in Perth, the event will showcase over 150 food, wine and beverage exhibitors. Of course, a definite huge draw card to the show is also the celebrity chefs that will be "performing" cooking demonstrations over the 3 day event. I say "performing" in inverted commas because whilst I am excited at the prospect of seeing Gary Mehigan, George Colombaris (both of Masterchef fame) and Matt Moran whip up culinary delights with hopefully a bit of humour and wit thrown in, other segment descriptions have already started to make me cringe.

Take Manu Feildel's "Spinning plates" segment - "He is the fun, feisty, fancy Frenchman from My Kitchen Rules, now see him juggling his culinary skills with his circus skills." So he's going to be spinning plates whilst cooking up a meal at the same time... right... NEXT!

Nevertheless, events like the Good Food and Wine Show are well worth supporting... afterall, it's publicity that leads to interest... interest that leads to awareness... and awareness that ultimately leads to choosing and demanding the right food direction for this city.

http://www.goodfoodshow.com.au/index.asp
In Perth July 2-4

Hidden Star

2010-03-16T22:31:00.006+08:00

Its always nice to stumble upon the unexpected... to taste something which you totally expect to be only passable, only to find your tastebuds pleasantly surprised. This was the case when M and I decided to pluck up enough courage to have dinner at Bintang cafe, an very non-descript, slightly rough around the edges Indonesian restaurant in East Vic Park. We are both fans of the slightly cleaner looking Batavia cafe around the corner which serves really spot on Indonesian sotos (or soup) and have often wondered about its poorer cousin just around the corner.

Don't get me wrong - not everything is good here - most of what we had ordered tasted at best ordinary... the pempek (Indonesian fried fish cake) was too doughy and had an accompanying sauce that lacked the tang that normally makes this dish very addictive. The satays here were a little too overcooked and burnt, leaving an unpleasant bitter taste despite being smothered in peanut sauce.

Things were not looking good... until we tasted the home made Mie Ayam (or simply fresh egg noodles with a chicken and mushroom topping). Simple... yes. Tasty... very much so. The texture of the home made noodles was great - firm to bite and perfectly seasoned with the basic toppings. Nothing fancy here... just well made, well seasoned noodles... Coupled with the home made kickass sambals on offer here.. this was unexpectedly delicious.

Our adventure into a meal at Bintang (which incidentally translates to "star" in Bahasa Indonesia) was an unexpected surprise... and this is one hidden star where we'll probably keep coming back to for a cheap noodle fix.

Bintang Cafe
12/910 Albany Hwy, East Victoria Park

My Favourite Ingredient

2010-03-02T21:04:00.013+08:00

There are many ingredients that I love to cook and eat with... but above all of the exotic and sometimes painfully expensive ingredients that I can think of, the humble egg takes the numero uno spot in every single way - flavour, texture, versatility and visual appeal. To me... a perfectly cooked egg can transform any dish from pedestrian to something completely memorable and extraordinary.

And so, waking up unusually early on a lazy Sunday morning (I blame this crazy Perth heat) gave me the perfect opportunity to experiment with cooking my favourite ingredient with a new technique - slow poached in its shell.

Readers who remember my post from late last year on Cumulus Inc (that fantastic breakfast spot in Melbourne) will remember how I fell in love with the 65/65 egg dish. Basically an egg poached in its shell at 65 degrees celcius for 65 minutes - I was swooning over the creamy texture of the not quite set egg yolk with the barely set egg white. And so, figuring I had time to dedicate to giving the mighty egg what it deserves, I set out to recreate this dish.

Now a word of warning - this did take a little bit of love and care during the cooking process (particularly if like me, you don't have the luxury of a induction hob which helps with maintaining a constant temperature)... but I firmly believe that food cooked with love is food worth cooking. Plus - the reward makes it all worthwhile.

I simply used a candy thermoeter and immersed a super fresh free range (please) egg in cold water which I brought to a warm bath of 65 degrees celcius (never allow the water to come to the boil or the dish is ruined).

Slow is the name of the game here - but 65 minutes on, crack your egg in a dish and you'll marvel at how beautifully shaped and intensely flavoured this super ingredient truly is. All that's left to do is to serve with fresh toast soldiers and a glass of orange juice for breakfast heaven... eggs-actly the way it should be.

Red Cabbage - So close yet so far

2009-12-12T09:45:00.008+08:00

Red Cabbage has built up a very strong reputation over the past 2 years for serving inventive modern British food right here in Perth. And having driven and walked past it almost everyday (its literally a stone's throw away from my apartment), it had up to this point always been one of those places that was so close to home it didn't seem like a priority to visit.

But a gathering of friends from overseas recently gave us the perfect opportunity to sample what has been raved about by reviewers as one of the top 5 restaurants in Perth. Naturally, we proceeded to Red Cabbage with fairly high expectations.

The menu on first glance was impressive - inventive, playful combinations by a chef who obviously is aware of how things read on paper can really make a difference. We were of course excited and ordered a few entrees which read beautifully - the roasted pork belly on watermelon relish , the roasted quail with green papaya salad and tempura oysters topped with a crispy potato chip and aioli.

The result? Beautifully presented food that didn't quite hit the mark in execution. The pork belly was a stunning looking dish - but seriously lacked flavour and to be completely honestly - needed a bit more cooking time to either render a bit of the fat from this prized cut or at least achieve a melt in your mouth texture in the protein.

The oysters - whilst tasty - were nothing out of the ordinary - the potato chip on top was completely unnecessary and in my mind, cheapened the dish (as did the bright blue salt the oysters were garnished on).

The quail was without a doubt, overcooked - which meant it was dry and chewy. Accompanied by a salad that was much too acidic - this dish simply did not work for me.

I could go on to describe the range of main courses we sampled but they were, to put it bluntly, forgettable and not something that I will be coming back anytime soon for. The crumbed braised beef brisket in my beef dish however, was something I will remember for a while to come - purely because it was so dry and unpleasant that I was a little shocked that how different my dining experience was compared to the rave reviews that this restaurant has been receiving.

Perhaps they had a bad night - perhaps sometimes hype gets in the way of honest opinion - but for me, Red Cabbage is one of those places that is so close - yet still very far from what it could be.

Red Cabbage

49/15 Labouchere Road

South Perth

Ha-Lu-Lujiah!

2009-11-28T09:25:00.005+08:00

We had the joy of celebrating my mum's birthday (who happened to be in town this week for a visit with her closest friends) last night at probably one of my favourite places to eat in Perth - Ha Lu - a Japanese izakaya style restaurant. As usual, I over-ordered and over-indulged. But everything was so perfectly executed that what seemed like a constant flow of beautifully presented clean tasting dishes was a true joy. Highlights included the kakuni pictured above (uber tender stewed pork belly) and the warm japanese salad with roasted vegetables.

We also ordered an interesting twist on the very homely dish of nikujaga (typically a hot pot of sliced beef onion and potatoes). Instead of the traditional simmered dish, Ha Lu has a revamped version that takes the form of a crispy creamy potato dumpling stuffed with sliced beef and topped with sliced onions and a soy dashi broth that is poured at the table.

The tuna and poached onsen style egg was a delicious combination of flavours and textures with tender sashimi tuna, crispy wanton crisps and and a creamy poached egg.

The wagyu beef tataki here is brilliant - melt in your mouth slivers of wagyu fillet served with seasonal root vegetables and an addictive ponzu sauce. The other beef dish ordered however was the only disappointment of the night. Diced wagyu beef steak with yuzu kosho pepper whilst sounding unbelievable on the menu, was overcooked and dry - probably due to the cubes being diced too small and a real letdown to an otherwise flawless meal.

Nevertheless - Ha Lu continues to be probably the best Japanese restaurant to eat in town. I left the restaurant content, very full, and looking forward to my next visit to sample new dishes introduced to the menu (given I had pretty much ordered everything in one seating).

Ha Lu
Shop4 / 401 Oxford Street, Mt Hawthorn

First attempts: Daily bread

2009-11-22T23:36:00.003+08:00

Keeping in theme with satisfying food cravings from dishes I grew up with in Singapore, I attempted to whip up some roti chanai over the weekend. These were surprisingly easy to make from scratch - although my version probably needed alot more grease and also the very coordinating flipping of the dough to get it paper thin (something which I attempted to do but failed miserably in) for it to taste truly authentic

Roti Chanai
1) Mix 500g plain flour with 2 tablespoons ghee, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon of sugar, approx 1/2 cup of lukewarm water and 1/4 cup lukewarm milk in a large bowl. Knead gently for 10 minutes until you end up with a smooth, elastic dough.
2) Form approx 12 balls of dough from the dough, coat in ghee and cover with clingfilm wrap. Leave to rest in a cool place for an hour.
3) Roll out each ball as thinly as possibly and fold each end into the centre to form a parcel. Sprinkle with olive oil and fry in a hot pan for approx 3 minutes on each side until golden brown.
4) Just before serving, clap your hands together around the roti to fluff it up. Serve with a spicy coconut curry and remember to use your hands!

Pumpkin risotto with chargrilled prawns and prosciutto wafer

2009-11-22T00:59:00.008+08:00

Alright, before I start with this recipe - I do realise that it has a strangely high proportion of its ingredients starting with the letter "P". Yes - that's right, pumpkin, prawns, prosciutto, baby peas... and the all important parmesan cheese... it wasn't till I started plating up that I was tickled by the natural pairing of ingredients beginning with the same alphabet (yes I am a geek).

Anyways - here's a simple recipe for this smashing pumpkin dish.

Pumpkin risotto
1) Roast half a pumpkin roughly chopped with shallots and garlic tossed in sea salt in extra virgin olive oil. Add to approx 4 cups chicken stock, simmer briefly and blend with a food processor.
2) Use pumpkin stock to cook risotto in the usual way (ie. fry up arborio rice in olive oil with chopped onion, garlic and a glass of white wine and add stock one ladle at a time for approx 20 mins until rice just gives on the bite).
3) Throw in a knob of butter and a handful of parmesan cheese - mix through and cover for 5 minutes for the rice to rest before serving.

Prosciutto wafer
1) Sandwich prosciutto between two sheets of baking paper and place a weight on top (e.g baking dish). Bake in a hot oven (approx 180 degrees) for approx 20 minutes.
2) Remove tray and remove baking paper.

Chargrilled prawns
1) Skewer each prawn from head to tail to hold its shape when cooking. Season generously with sea salt and cracked pepper.
2) Pan fry prawns in a hot pan with olive oil - about a minute on each side.
3) Reserve oil.

To plate up
1) Plate risotto in a ring mould on one end of the plate. Top with chargrilled prawns. Drizzle reserved oil used to fry prawns over risotto. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese.
2) Lay prosciutto wafer on other side of plate and garnish with boiled peas refreshed in cold water.
3) Bon appetit!

Putting the Extra in Ordinary...

2009-11-22T00:57:00.004+08:00

I recently blogged about a new ramen bar in Northbridge, Perth. And whilst I was not overly impressed with the broth that was served with their homemade noodles - I was more than addicted to the toppings that came with each bowl - most especially the roast pork or chashu. Literally melt in your mouth pork belly that has been braised to perfection in a very delicious concotion of what is most likely soy sauce, sake, mirin, sugar and ginger - really special stuff.

And so, in a stroke of genius (at least I like to think so), I visted Arigataya ramen again and ordered a bowl of japanese curry rice (kare raisu) - with... wait for it, the aforementioned roast pork as a topping.

The curry here on its own was very generic and unfortunately made from a packet roux that tasted all too familiar (we rely on this stuff at home when we're too lazy or time pressed to whip a dinner up). However, paired with the delightfully tasty roast pork - this was one very satisfying lunch - and cheap too!

Just goes to show... sometimes the ordinary just needs a dose of something extra to make it oh so special...

Arigataya Ramen
Roe Street
Northbridge, Perth

Sweety and Savoury

2009-11-19T23:31:00.006+08:00

I love the contrast of sweet and savoury flavours - when perfectly balanced, its an addictive combination that is strangely moreish. A pumpkin risotto with crispy salty prosciutto... a juicy ripe tomato with a sprinkling of sea salt... or in the case of a brilliant breakfast dish - crispy bacon on french toast drizzled with maple syrup.

We found ourselves at Deli Chicchi in Mount Claremont over the weekend for a lazy breakfast with friends we had not caught up for a while. A beautiful spot for a lazy weekend breakfast or brunch - it even has a section dedicated to cookbooks and produce you can purchase while you're waiting for your food.

This very cool breakfast spot perched on a street corner has simply but very tasty options for breakfast. From the zucchini and haloumi fritters to the roasted tomato, mozzarella and avocado bruschetta.

Oh - and of course the highlight of the day - the aforementioned french toast. Crispy bacon, fluffy french toast, warm maple syrup - yum!

Deli Chicchi

Strickland Street

Mount Claremont

First attempts: Nasi Briyani

2009-11-16T17:00:00.000+08:00

I've recently had a longing for some dishes available in Singapore and Malaysia which are hard to find here in Perth. One such craving is for the Indian Muslim dish of Nasi Briyani - there are variations available here in Indian restaurants but these taste quite different from the versions found in Singapore which are less rich and characterised by fluffier, almost al-dente basmati rice grains.

And so - not wanting to deny myself of life's simple pleasures, I set out to find a recipe and attempt to recreate the flavours I miss so much. "Singapore Heritage Food" by Sylvia Tan is a fascinating part recipe book part history of Singapore's culinary heritage. Below is an adapted version from her book.

Nasi Briyani
Chicken
4 tbs ghee
1 cup shallots, sliced
1 large onion, chopped
1 thumb sized length of ginger, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp cumin powder
2 tomatoes, chopped
2 tbs chopped mint leaves
1 tbs salt
1.5kg chicken pieces
3 cardamoms
1 stick sinnamon
4 tbs yoghurt

Rice
4 cups Basmati rice washed and dried
1 tbs ghee
4 cloves garlic smashed
1 thumb sized length ginger, smashed
5 shallots, finely chopped
1 stick cinnamon
5 cardamoms
5 cloves
1 tsp saffron threads
sprinkling of rose essence (omit if not available)
1 tsp salt
4 cups chicken stock

Method
1. Heat ghee in wok and fry shallots till golden - set aside.
2. In same oil, brown chopped onion, garlic, and ginger. Add 2 Tbs water to spice powders to form a paste and add to wok to fry over a low fire till fragrant.
3. Add tomatoes, mint and salt and cook till softened. Add chicken, cinnamon and cardamoms. Cook gently till meat is just cooked. Stir in yogurt and cook for 15 minutes more. Skim and reserve oil from sauce.
4. Fry ginger, garlic and shallots till golden brown. Add cinnamon, cloves and cardamoms. Add reserved oil and rice grains and fry till grains absorb oil. Transfer to a rice cooker.
5. Heat stock and add saffron and rose essence (if using). Add stock to rice cooker and cook until fully absorved.
6. Fluff rice with a fork and place chicken pieces in a well in the rice. Cover and cook for another 10 minutes.
7. Garnish with fried shallots and serve.

Arigato! Arigataya

2009-11-15T22:05:00.005+08:00

I have had a soft spot for ramen ever since tasting greatness in the tonkotsu ramen of Ichiran in Fukuoka last year. Sadly, a rameniac would find it hard to satisfy his or her craving here in Perth as there are less than a handful of places where this is served.

So it was with great excitement when I heard about Arigataya ramen which had opened its doors to noodle lovers just this week. With a reputation of having noodles made fresh on the premises, I was keen to slurp out this joint to see if there was hope yet for satisfying a ramen craving right here in Western Australia.

The menu here is basic - you choose from either the standard ramen with a chicken/pork bone broth (with a choice of either shio or shoyu flavour) or tsukemen (ramen served with a dipping sauce on the side). For a few dollars extra, you get to "upsize" your condiments - with ni-tamago (a briliant way of cooking an egg with a fully cooked white but a slightly runny and creamy yolk centre) and extra slabs of the house made charsiu (roasted pork belly).

The verdict? The broth lacked the depth of flavour I love in a good ramen broth and tasted a little generic. The noodles had good texture but seemed to impart a slightly alkaline flavour to the broth which was a little overpowering.

But the stars here are clearly the condiments. The ni-tamago was cooked to perfection - beautifully set egg white and a creamy deep orange yolk. The charsiu was nothing short of brilliant - delightfully "melt in your mouth" pork belly char-grilled on the outside to achieve a fantastic combination of flavour and texture.

Ok - so maybe Arigataya wasn't the life changing noodle experience I had hoped for - but there's enough goodness in the bowl for me to come back for more. And let's be honest - another decent option to satisfy a frequent ramen craving is something I'm happy to say "arigato!" for.

Arigataya ramen
Roe St, Perth

What every cloud has...

2009-11-12T17:16:00.012+08:00

Justs stopped over in Melbourne for two days for work and was a little disappointed initially because:
(A) The short stay meant I had little opportunity to pig out like I normally do in this fantastic city.
(B) Accomodation options were scarce because Tiger Woods was in town and that brought with it crowds that took up my usual hotel options. (Britney Spears was also in town but I seriously doubt that would have been a reason for my predicament).

In any case, I remained optimistic and tried to make the best of my 48 hours in the mighty Melbourne. As it turned out, the little serviced apartment that I managed to secure, whilst on the fringes of the city centre at the end of Flinders Lane, meant that I was strategically placed right next to one of the city's hottest up and coming restaurants, Cumulus Inc.

Named after puffy looking clouds (look up wikipedia for a more meteor-logical explanation) and run by Andrew McConnell (the Age Food Guide chef of the year), this very cool spot is famed for inventive food but also fantastic breakfasts.

I popped in in the wee hours of the morning on my second day (it starts getting busy from 8am onwards) and was immediately drawn to the smoked salmon, 65/65 egg, sorrel, apple and dill dish on the inventive breakfast menu. I am unashamedly an eggnophile - and the intriguing description meant I just had to order it.

A 65/65 egg is essentially a super slow poached egg, with its description indicating that it is poached in its shell at a controlled temperature of 65 degrees celcius for 65 minutes. What results is a textural delight - perfectly poached white and a creamy, almost gelatinous yolk of eggy goodness. Paired with the subtle saltiness of the Tom Cooper's smoked salmon, the "it just makes sense" combination of dill and capers, plus the acid from the refreshing batons of green apple, all served on a crusty buttered ciabatta toast, and you get one delicious breakfast dish.

Satisfied from a great first meal to the day, I decided that my initial reasons for disappointment were actually a blessing in disguise. Cumulus is a sophisticated and very smart dining experience, and as far as clouds go - this is one that has reminded me that every situation has a silver lining.

Cumulus Inc
45 Flinders Lane
Melbourne 3000
www.cumulusinc.com.au

Julie & Julia - Boeuf Bourguignon

2009-11-08T23:14:00.004+08:00

As any self respecting food geek can attest to - Julie and Julia (starring the phenomenal Meryl Streep and the very impressive Amy Adams) is a unique film that portrays a fascinating story of how food can have a pivotal role in transforming everyday lives. Another thing that this movie brings to life is the idea that French food doesn't have to be daunting and can be accessible to everyday cooks.

Perhaps the best example of this is the classic dish of boeuf bourguignon - basically an extremely robust, earthy, rich red wine beef stew. The large quantity of red wine used in the recipe may seem overwhelming at first but transforms the humble beef stew into something beautifully rich yet subtle at the same time. There are of course multiple variations to this classic dish - from Julia Child's version to that found in the numerous French cookbooks in the market. I have adapted snippets from a few respectable French cookbooks into this version - try it - you'll love it.

Recipe
Ingredients
1.5kg beef shin (cut into quite large chunks)
10 red shallots peeled and left whole
4 rashers bacon roughly chopped
2 brown onions chopped
4 cloves garlic
2 cloves
1 bottle red wine (something delicious enough for you to sneak a glass while cooking)
bouquet garni (1 bunch thyme and parsley tied in kitchen string)
2 carrots cut into large wedges
10 button mushrooms cleaned and left whole
1 can tomatoes (drained)
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup flour

Method
1. Marinate beef shin in the red wine for an hour. Drain (reserving wine) and season with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and coat lightly in plain flour.
2. Pan fry bacon until crispy and fat has been rendered. In the same fat, brown onions, shallots and garlic cloves. Remove and set aside.
3. In the same pan, brown beef pieces in batches (do not crowd the pan to prevent beef from stewing).
4. Return browned bacon, onions, shallots and garlic cloves to pan. Slowly add reserved wine marinade to pan to deglaze pan. Add tomatoes and cloves and simmer. Cover pan with baking paper and foil and secure with a tight fitting lid.
5. Pop the pan into a pre-heated oven at 150 degrees celcius. Cook gently for 3.5 hours (cooking the beef gently this way yields a melt in your mouth texture). Remove foil and baking paper. Pan fry button mushrooms and carrots until slightly caramelised - add to pan and return to oven for another hour.
6. Using clean hands, bind flour and butter to form a roux. Fry roux in a hot pan until slightly brown and add sauce from pan - whisk until sauce thickens and return to rest of the ingredients. Cook for another 2 minutes until sauce coats the back of a spoon.
7. Serve with a garnish of fresh parsley, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil (ok - maybe this is an Italian touch but I love it) and serve with warm crusty bread.

Bon appetit!

Flippin Good

2009-11-01T10:52:00.006+08:00

I'll just come out and say it - I love Flipside burgers. Ever since having discovered the tiny gourmet burger joint in Fremantle over 3 years ago, M and I have visited this brilliant spot over and over again for their uber tasty burgers and their to die for chunky chips.

It actually is quite surprising that I haven't blogged about this not so secret gem of a place given that its one thing that I always seem to have a craving for and one that always hits the spot.

Since then - Flipside has expanded and started a new spot in yet another leafy Perth suburb of Wembley. Same burgers (although I must admit the Freo joint constructs their burgers better), same char grilled goodness and the same happiness that it brings me everytime I visit. To top things off, both locations are now strategically situated beside very cool bars (Mrs Brown in Freo and the Stanley in Wembley) where you can order a drink and have your burger delivered to you to enjoy in very cool digs.

My personal favourite is the Blue Train (char grilled 95% fat free beef patty topped with lettuce, tomato and garnished a generous crumbling of blue cheese sandwiched between fantastic homemade buns) with the addition of crispy bacon. Be sure to order a side of generously cut crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, chunky chips. Wash it down with an ice cold beer from the bar next door - and you're in burger heaven... flippin fantastic.

Flipside Burger Bar
http://www.flipsideburgerbar.com.au/

A moment of silence...

2009-10-27T21:08:00.004+08:00

One of the most shocking discoveries in the weekend that just passed was that one of my all time favourite casual chinese eateries in Perth has, or at least appears to have, shut down very suddenly.

Hong Kong BBQ or 顺德 as it is affectionately known by the local chinese has been around forever. And by forever I mean ever since I first arrived in Perth as a student almost 15 years ago now.

For as long as I can remember, this unpretentious, extremely efficient and welcoming chinese restaurant has been a dining home to my friends and I. We found comfort in their delicious beef brisket braised to melting perfection in earthen claypots, marvelled at their large portions of crispy roast pork, were thrilled by the ridiculously moreish wok fried snow crab in a salted egg yolk batter and most importantly, became hopelessly addicted to their house made chilli oil (a potent blend of fried dried chillis, garlic and other secret condiments).

We had our Sunday lunches, late weeknight gatherings, after movie supper catch ups, birthday celebrations even in this very popular establishment... this place was as much about the food as it was the memories that it injected into our lives. The lovely owners that ran the restaurant were always extremely warm and friendly - and having visited this place countless times in the past 15 years, I had become a familiar face that they always acknowledged with a welcoming smile. My only regret is that I had never bothered to get to know them on a first name basis.

And as I take a moment of silence to reflect on the (potential I hope) possibility of losing 顺德 - I realise that just like the people closest to you in life, you should never take their presence for granted... I mean I had never even thought of including this old favourite on this blog until now.

My only hope is that the owners had decided to take time out to renovate the restaurant's premises... and in the process allowed me to appreciate this restaurant for what it really has been - a big part of my dining life here.

Miso marinated roasted salmon

2009-10-21T22:19:00.007+08:00

I love this recipe. Deceptively simple, delightfully tasty and definitely one of the best and easiest ways of cooking a beautiful fillet of salmon.

Simply marinate your salmon fillets (pin bones removed) overnight in a marinade of shiro (white) miso, orange zest, grated ginger, grated garlic, soya sauce and equal parts of mirin and sake (brought to a boil to burn off the alcohol content and left to cool).

The next day, remove excess marinade (this can be strained and reduced on the stove for a delicious sauce, and roast the salmon under a hot grill in the middle section of the oven for 4 minutes. Bring the roasting tray to the top section in the final 2 minutes of cooking to get some caramelisation and colour to the fish.

I like to serve this simply on a bed of wakame (japanese seaweed) dressed in rice vinegar, mirin and soya sauce, with miso soup and steamed rice. The orange zest and ginger are a perfect match with the rich earthy miso and the fattiness of the salmon - so simple but oh so good.

Daylesford Dreaming

2009-10-20T23:22:00.002+08:00

On a recent visit to Melbourne, M and I decided to spend a couple of days in the day spa country town of Daylesford which is around an hour and a half outside of the city. This picturesque town was very cool - great spots to eat, drink, stay, bath (in one of the many mineral springs bath houses) and unwind (with luxurious massage treatments). Here are just some of the many great little spots in this very unforgettable holiday destination.

Stay

http://www.saltus.com.au/ - These beautiful self contained villas are perched gently on a hill overlooking the Hepburn Springs woods. Fantastic fit outs, a stone bath, panoramic views from the living and bedrooms and a very functional kitchen - this is a great spot for a relaxing getaway.

Sweet
http://www.sweetdecadence.com.au/ - This well known chocolate cafe on the main strip in Daylesford serves great coffee, hand made chocolates and a to die for chocolate pudding.

Drink
http://www.breakfastandbeer.com.au/home.php - a fine collection of Australian and European beers, this eclectic establishment also serves simple but well cooked light meals. The owner is more than happy to impart his extensive knowledge on the humble brew and will expertly pair your meals with a well matched pour.

Eat
http://www.theredstar.com.au/ - This tiny cafe doesn't look like much from the outside but is a warm and welcoming breakfast establishment that does a fantastic breakfast fry up. The fare here is unpretentious but very well cooked - the black pudding in particular was stunning and well worth the visit for.

Cook
http://www.fernleighfarms.com/ - this organic farm that specialises in the rare wessex saddleback pigs is fantastic. The owner, Fiona, has a real passion for humane treatment of her livestock and is truly sincere about producing the best sustainable produce. On the drive in I even noticed her happy pigs munching on organic carrots, apples, parsnips and other delicious vegetables. I purchased some streaky bacon and a pork neck which I used to whip up for dinner that night. A roast pork rubbed in thyme and garlic and wrapped with crispy bacon and served with a apple and roasted vegetable gravy was truly brilliant and testament to how great ingredients make great food.

I Heart Dumplings

2009-10-10T22:39:00.004+08:00

Morsels of goodness - I love dim sum but am always found frustrated, almost violently so, about the lack of decent place in Perth to enjoy some well made dumplings (though I have found a pretty decent place recently which I will blog about down the track)...

In Melbourne however, the availability of good yum cha isn't lost in this food capital of the nation. Whilst some of these might be found in Chinatown... some really fantastic, made to order dim sum can be found in the suburbs.

Purple Sands is a relatively small chinese restaurant located in the leafy suburb of Camberwell (where that ridiculously talented actor Geoffrey Rush lives). Almost too unassuming from the outside as it sits next to an even more unassuming laundromat - the quality of the food and especially the dumplings here is pretty darn surprising.

Everything is made to order here - which is a huge difference to the mass produced gluggy stuff that have become so common around places that continue to draw the crowds (for some reason that continues to baffle me). Call me a dumpling snob - but the quiet, out of the way nature of this very tasty yum cha joint makes this a hidden gem.

Purple Sands
180 Camberwell Road
Hawthorn East

Grill'd Burgers

2009-09-26T22:32:00.002+08:00

Long time followers of this blog will know that I have a soft spot for burgers. Grill'd, a burger chain that originated from a corner shop on Glenferrie Road has expanded into something of a phenomenon. It has since grown to be a hugely successful franchise that specialises in well constructed "healthier" burgers which are oh so tasty.

My personal favourite is the Grill'd mustard and pickled... so simple but oh so good. Served with a side of their famous herbed chips and range of dips and aiolis - this is one kick ass burger joint that's well worth the visit.

Oh - and did I mention that they're licensed so you can purchase a cold beer to go with your meal?

www.grilld.com.au

Pearl cafe

2009-09-26T22:03:00.002+08:00

Next up - lunch at Pearl cafe... offspring of the upmarket Pearl restaurant which specialises in mod-Asian fare. This casual diner offers a mix of Asian influenced meals (think king prawn mint and glass noodle salad, green chicken curry) as well as hearty cafe type meals.

We opted for two examples of the latter, a duck and chestnut pot pie and an autumn vegetable lasagne. Prices here are extremely reasonable for the generosity of portions and quality of produce. The lasagne whilst plated beautifully lacked seasoning which would have made it a fantastic vegetarian option. The duck pie however was delicious - perfectly braised duck with chestnut topped by a buttery flaky puff pastry. Paired with the caramelised onion jam on the side, this was perfect comfort food for a typical crisp cold Melbourne afternoon.

Pearl Cafe
599 Church Street
Richmond

Porgie & Mrs Jones

2009-09-25T23:19:00.007+08:00

Alright - its been a while and its because I have just returned from the magnificent city of Melbourne. As usual, there is always a fantastic list of places that serve brilliant, well cooked food.

First up we have Porgie & Mr Jones, a very cool breakfast spot in Hawthorn that has a laid back warehouse feel to its space. We ordered the poached eggs on toasted grain bread with spinach, red pepper pesto and hazlenut dukkah as well as the smashed avocado with thyme buttered mushrooms, marinated fetta on whole grain toast.

Both were delicious, generous and a great start to our first day in Melbourne.

Porgie & Mrs Jones
291 Auburn Road
Hawthorn

Colonel's curry

2009-08-23T22:45:00.003+08:00

I'm not going to lie to you - I, just like many people who enjoy well coooked food, have a weakness for the Colonel's fried chicken. Yes... Kentucky deep fried "dirty bird" chicken, whilst so bad for me, does manage to satisfy a craving (albeit briefly) before consistently leaving me in a heap of "why the heck did I do that?".

Yes... there are so many things wrong with the idea of eating mass produced, battery chickens deep fried in artery clogging fat in the 11 secret (than God coz they were probably created in a science lab) herbs and spices... but it does appeal.

A genius way to enjoy the "calorie chicken" is to serve it with steamed rice and japanese curry. Yes.. that's right, Hot and Spicy chicken with home made japanese curry kicks ass. The spicy flavours naturally work well together and also means that you can introduce greens and vegetables into the otherwise sinful meal (any opportunity to lessen the guilt works for me). I like to add chopped chillis, onions, carrot, potato and sweet potato to my curry as well as half a freshly grated apple (preferably fuji) at the end of the cooking process to take the edge off the heat with natural sweetness.

Mmmm... this is one of those shortcuts in life that just make sense... try it to believe it.

Kiri Take 2

2009-08-18T23:40:00.007+08:00

I have previously raved about Kiri Japanese restaurant which is nestled in the quiet neighbourhood of Shenton Park. This tiny yet elegant restaurant is run by Taka and Noriko, genuinely nice people who have a passion for what they do. A recent visit back proved that they are still feeding this passion as well as lovers of Japanese food who keep coming back for more.

Aside from the standard menu of their most requested items, Kiri also has a changing seasonal menu which reflects the fresh produce that varies from month to month. More often than not, it also includes Taka's new creations which range from the simplest (like cream crab croquettes topped with crispy lotus root) to the more elaborate (a beautifully presented bento box of unagi, grilled duck breast wrapped around grilled asparagus, grilled sablefish and nasu dengaku).

Kiri does well in simple but well cooked Japanese fare that steps beyond your teriyaki glazes (although it also does these perfectly well) and presents beautifully. What is even more impressive is that Taka manages to whip up these beautiful creations in the tiniest of kitchens. I was amazed at the constant stream of takeaway orders that came throughout dinner service and how the kitchen was able to keep up the pace.

It's great to see a deserving place do well - remember to book in advance.

The good... the ugly... and the bloody tasty

2009-08-16T23:51:00.006+08:00

I've never been to Mexico - and I'm not sure if I'll get there anytime soon. But there's something festive about the idea of Mexican food - nothing pretentious, spiced up, often very messy and when done right - oh so tasty.

So its sad that Mexican food often gets a bad rap with the cheap and nasty versions served up the world over. From greasy and sloppy quesadillas to stale and crusty tacos - Mexican food has also become associated with stuff you devour when you've had too many a cheap margarita and its the only way in which you can get the maximum grease in the shortest amount of time to ease the pain.

And so it was a pleasant surprise when M and I stumbled upon the Flying Taco, a tiny Mexican diner tucked in North Perth for a late Saturday lunch (no we weren't drinking heavily the night before).

Everything is made from scratch here - from the delicious smelling tortilla to the addictive range of salsas. We ordered two burritos, a carne asada (grilled sliced steak marinated in lime juice, garlic and oregano) and the carnitas (slow cooked pork with grilled fresh pineapple). Both were excellent and were stuffed with delicious fresh ingredients as well as refried beans and Mexican red rice.

Nothing fancy here at the Flying Taco - as a matter of fact you might walk straight past it and head to the buzzing gourmet foodstore and cafes just next door. But drop by and be rewarded with some genuinely good food.

And whilst I probably won't get the privilege of visiting Mexico anytime soon, making amigos with its food here in Perth isn't such a bad substitute in the mean time.

The Flying Taco
40 Angove Street
North Perth
www.flyingtaco.com.au

More than meets the eye

2009-08-13T18:33:00.007+08:00

We had the pleasure of dining at Table 78 for dinner recently, having booked our group of 8 into one of the private dining rooms in this charming restaurant that has found a home in a row of heritage listed houses in West Perth.

The setting here is elegant but simple - relying on the character of the high ceilings, wooden floor boards and vintage furniture to set the tone. And so is it with the food here.

Pared back to simple, uncomplicated menu descriptions with honestly tasty dishes cooked and seasoned well, the team at table 78 have managed to successfully pull off the concept of simple fine dining.

We started off with some seriously fantastic tempura oysters topped with chilli jam perched gently on top pickled cucumber in its shell. The zingy vinegar in the cucumber cut nicely through creamy and crispy oysters... balance of flavours and texture - me like.

We also had the chickpea battered prawns, served with rocket and a harissa mayonnaise. Nothing fancy, not particularly photogenic (hence its absence from the pictures), but very tasty.

For mains we opted for the specials for the night. The fish of the day was super crispy skinned barramundi fillets on a bed of chickpea and spinach.

We also had the roasted pork striploin marinated in fennel seeds, served with roasted beetroot jam with a side quenelle of parsnip and wholeseed mustard mash. This was probably the only disappointing dish of the night. Whilst the combination of flavours was spot on, the thick cut of lean pork was quite dry and let down an otherwise impressive looking dish.

The standout for the night however was definitely the braised wagyu beefcheeks served with roasted baby carrots and leeks on top of the ultimate potato puree (so creamy it hurts). This was perfectly executed and the gelatinous cheeks a true joy to eat.

Table 78 has an equally simple but delicious dessert menu. The hazlenut creme brulee with short bread was delightful, as was the chocolate marquise sandwiched in a pistachio biscuit.

The menu at Table 78 won't surprise - what you see is what you get. Its the execution of the dishes and the clever balance of textures, flavours and ingredients that will surprise and delight. Coupled with attentive service and an unpretentious setting, this is one restaurant that I'll definitely be returning to.

Kumatoes on Toast

2009-06-21T23:25:00.003+08:00

I have found a new addiction (and yes I have many with food)... black tomatoes... otherwise known as kumatoes. These black beauties have a dark green to brown tinge and possess an intensely sweet tomato flavour.

Previously quite rare, I've started noticing their appearance in growers markets as well as some supermarkets. And whilst just as versatile as its crimson cousin, I find that these tanned fellas are best eaten fresh sprinkled with sea salt which really accentuates the savoury sweetness of these delightful fruits.

I recommend the kumatoes simply sliced (then brought to room temperature for maximum flavour) and served on freshly toasted ciabatta smothered in butter. All that's left to do is a sprinkling of sea salt and possibly one of the best and healthiest breakfasts you could ever have is ready to be served!

Go Go Gozen!

2009-06-21T22:54:00.004+08:00

M and I stumbled upon a brilliant spot for lunch after a morning of shopping in Subiaco on the weekend. We were both ravenous at this stage and were desperately hoping that Satsuki, a relatively newcomer to the area, was going to be a winner.

And that it was... this little Japanese restaurant hit all the right notes for our post shopping lunch... we started off with the tuna oshi sushi, which is a specialty here. Moulded in a rectangular box shape and cut into cubes, our entree was a delicious combination of seasoned tuna (no need for soy sauce or wasabi on the side here) topped with tobiko and rested on sushi rice sandwiching aonori seaweed. This was as delicious as it was beautiful and gave us a good sign of things to come.

For the mains we each had a gozen bento lunchbox. M opted for an extremely well executed tori karaage which was delightfully crispy on the outside and succulent marinated chicken on the inside. My braised pork belly kakuni was a joy to eat - melt in your mouth pork belly with strong hints of ginger and soya sauce... served with a hard boiled egg braised in the same seasonings.

M could not resist the small but very appealing dessert menu here... and so we finished off our meal with a green tea scented creme brulee. Whilst I found the green tea element of the menu description lacking, this was nonetheless a very nice dessert. The custard was creamy and not overly sweet which was nicely balanced the attractively burnt sugar topping dotted with green tea powder.

Satsuki does a more upmarket menu for dinner which we were both keen to try after having sampled its simple but well executed lunch menu. M and I both love good Japanese food - and in the case of Satsuki, I think we may have just fallen in love.

Raising the Steaks

2009-06-08T23:19:00.004+08:00

There aren't many things better in life than a simply but well cooked steak coated with a red wine sauce and devoured with a bottle of a full bodied red.

There's something about biting into a juicy, medium rare steak that satisfies the primal human and frankly, it takes nothing more than some loving care and quality ingredients. Below is a simple but winning recipe.

Ingredients
For the steak
400 gram steak (I used a T-bone on this occassion - look for good marbling)

Sea Salt
Freshly cracked black pepper

For the sauce
Shallots
Beef bones (if you have them - otherwise use trimmings from your steak)
Diced carrot
Diced celery
Garlic cloves
Sprig of rosemary
Brandy
Full bodied red (I used a Cabernet Shiraz)
Good quality beef or veal stock
Knob of butter

Method
1. Leave meat out at room temperature for at least an hour. Season very generously with salt and pepper (the seasonings will "disappear" into the crust of the steak)
2. Once a pan is very hot, pan fry the steak 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a pre-heated oven (200 degrees celcius) and cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove and rest for 2 minutes.
3. For sauce, pan fry bones in olive oil, add shallots, carrots, celery, garlic and rosemary. Season with sea salt and cook until vegetables start to caramelise.
4. Deglaze with brandy, then add a glass of red wine. Simmer until alcohol burns off and add beef/veal stock. Simmer for 20 minutes or until reduced. Strain sauce, season and add a knob of butter at the end of the cooking time.
5. Serve steak on a warmed plate, drizzle with red wine sauce and a side of blanched french beans.
6. Eat, drink and be very happy!

When quick is good

2009-05-09T22:58:00.004+08:00

Its been a while since my last post and yes... its because I have returned to full time work and have rejoined the days of waking up earlier than I would care to and going home later than I would like... but I am grateful. It does feel strange to suddenly have routine again in my life and I'm learning that time becomes more of a valuable commodity when you have less of it to call your own.

Instead of taking the time to cook meals you would otherwise love to create during the week, sometimes quick bites that can be whipped together in minutes with minimal fuss are irreplaceable.

So it was with great excitement that I came across Momoya Gohandesuyo, a seaweed kelp paste I found in a Japanese specialty shop. Traditionally eaten with steamed rice, I started experimenting with this very tasy condiment and was pleasantly surprised at the results.

Mix a tablespoon of seaweed paste with a dollop of butter into freshly cooked spaghetti or angelhair and top with finely diced cherry tomatoes and chives... Incredibly simple but surprisingly tasty. The mixture is also darn good folded with butter through freshly cooked short grain rice and topped with a crispy fried egg...

Sigh... if only all fast food could taste this good.

Patisserie!

2009-04-24T00:30:00.010+08:00

We had a brilliant picnic lunch today - thanks to a Perth institution that requires no introduction - Chez Jean Claude Patisserie. This tiny Swiss style bakery in the leafy suburb of Subiaco produces the most phenomenal pastries, bread and sweets and still draws a hungry line that snakes out onto the sidewalk every lunchtime.

Everything (really) is great here but one of my favourites is the very crusty sesame baguette with cream cheese, smoked salmon and capers. The whole wheat baguette with coppa, pear and artichoke is also a delicious combination... fresh, simple fillings in awesome bread... it doesn't get much better than that. The German Sausage roll is also sinfully good - juicy Bratwurst wrapped up in brilliant pastry... so tasty.

The sweets here are legendary - I'm partial to the strawberry tart which sees the luscious fruit topped on wobbly custard and a just right cookie base with chocolate. The chocolate croissants and eclairs here are just as delightful.

This patisserie has been around forever, and Jean Claude himself still bakes on the premises. The man is a genius - churning out the tastiest baked goods to feed the many that make the pilgrimage to line up on the sidewalk. So if you're ever in the area, pop in for some pastry goodness - it'll be well worth the visit.

Chez Jean Clude Patisserie
333 Rokeby Road, Subiaco, WA
(Sadly not open on weekends)

The Proof is in the Crackling

2009-04-18T00:25:00.008+08:00

At first glance, this may appear to be some lame joke on how to prepare a dish... but I kid you not - what you're looking at is a kickass method for making that old favourite - Chinese Roasted Pork Rice... with a twist.

In essence, this recipe borrows from the traditional method of roasting pork in an underground coal pit, where the intensity of the heat causes the meat to steam (from its own juices) as well as roast at the same time.

Now instead of heading out to your garden with a shovel to achieve porcine greatness, this recipe simply requires the pork belly to be cooked skin side down in a wok under a tight fitting bowl and covered in rice that cooks and bakes the pork at the same time.

What's brilliant about this method that you end up with a delicious crust for the rice flavoured brilliantly by the drippings and fat rendered from the roasted pork. The meat, through the baking process becomes melt in your mouth tender and has an unexpectedly intense flavour from steaming in its own juices. Best of all. the crackling formed from the slow searing of the pork skin in the wok is irresistably crisp.

Recipe
Ingredients
500 lean pork belly (skin on)
Salt (to taste)
Crush szechuan peppercorns (to taste)
5 cups long grain jasmine rice
5 cups water

Method
1. Stab skin of pork belly with a fork and rub in salt and crushed szechuan peppercorns. Leave for at least 1 hour at room temperature.
2. Place rice and water in a wok with a tight fitting lid and bring to a boil, stirring to prevent sticking.
3. When the water has mostly been absorbed and rice has reached a thick cosistency, push grains to one half of the wok. Then, place pork belly skin side down on the other half and cover with a fitting bowl. Push bowl (covering pork) into centre of wok and pack tightly with the rice. Cover wok with lid and cook over a low flame for 60 minutes.
4. Turn heat to medium high and cook for a further 5 minutes. Turn off flame and leave to stand for at least 5 minutes without lifting the lid.
5. Lift the lid from the wok, scoop out bowl from underneath the rice and cut pork into bite size pieces. Serve with accompanying rice and scratch your head wondering how something so simple could be so darn good.

Lessons from my 100th post

2009-04-06T22:06:00.013+08:00

As if by some karmic coincidence, I am writing my 100th post on my flight back to Perth, Australia. It has been almost exactly a year since I relocated temporarily to Singapore to be with my mother following dad’s passing… and this blog has been an avenue for me to indulge in my amateurish interests in food, photography and writing.

To say that the past year has been an emotional roller coaster ride is an understatement – I have, through stepping away from a job and life that I was so used to, learnt more about myself and my relationships than I would have ever imagined. Not surprisingly, food has been used as a metaphor through most of this… and in doing so, fed the words and squeezed the creative juices for my blog.

I have learnt first and foremost that my heart still aches whenever I think about my father, be it remembering him at his favourite restaurant to letting go of his liquor collection – but that I should be grateful that he still lives and resonates so strongly in my life.

I have discovered the joys of street food in Singapore – that I had only been a pretend foodie up till this point in my life without venturing out to the heartlands where ridiculously tasty and embarrassingly affordable food are whipped up by people who know and love what they do.

I have travelled across Japan, South Korea, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur and Melbourne … eaten myself silly through all of it but realising that the ingredients to a perfect meal don’t have to include pristine presentation or alluring ambience… that the comfort in food rests in finding your heart’s longing for something emotionally familiar.

I have in the process of my eating expeditions, discovered my deathrow meal of tonkotsu ramen in the charming city of Fukuoka. The Japanese are the most food conscious people in the world… period.

I have learnt that we can all stomach a little more tolerance and swallow our prejudices – the most delicious Singaporean dishes can be prepared by a Filipino domestic helper who’s passionate about the food of her adopted country – a person’s heritage doesn’t determine who they are and what they stand for.

I have learnt that being able to put food on the table through a job is a blessing, no matter how much you hate waking up in the morning and joining that rat race. Your job, like your life and relationships, is what you make of it.

I have, quite amusingly, learnt to eat slower to avoid the prospect of swallowing a star anise or chipping my tooth on a chopstick mid chew - CT scans of my thorax and dental work don’t come cheap.

And most importantly, I have come to understand why I am the way I am – that food has always formed a big part of my family and my life. Food, for as long as I can remember, has always peppered our conversations, garnished our relationships and flavoured our memories. The plate of life and the things that matter taste a whole lot better with food included in the serving - and maybe its taken me a year and a hundred posts to realise this - but that in itself is something that we should all be happy to be hungry for.

Back to basics

2009-04-03T15:56:00.005+08:00

I realise that there have been quite a number of posts on noodles in recent times - but I can't live with myself without blogging on kampua mee, a dish of cult status in the little town of Sibu, Sarawak, where my parents hail from. More than just something to curb a carb craving, a good bowl of kampua jogs my childhood memories of visiting my parent's birthtown.

I remember gathering with my cousins in my grandparent's bedroom whilst they hosted their elaborate lunch parties with the most exotic dishes whipped up by their hired chefs. Rather than join in the festivities and being the little punks we were, we insisted on takeaway plastic packets of kampua mee for lunch whilst we brainlessly watched re-runs of Star Wars.

I also remember joining my uncle for a late night snack on a makeshift hut that sat on a funky smelling drain... the first bite into a steaming bowl of kampua reigniting my tastebuds and I suddenly forgot about the less than pleasant venue in which I was dining in.

Kampua mee as the locals refer to here is simply fresh noodles (no eggs used) cooked in rapidly boiling water and tossed in a concoction typically of shallot oil, light soy, MSG (which locals are fiercely protective of) and the all important lard. Yes that's right... in pursuit of carbohydrate greatness, considerations of cholesterol and health benefits become absurd and almost blasphemous.

Slap on a few slices of the token dry and chewy char siew (the focus here really is on the noodles only), served with the softest and most delectable wantons... and voila - a breakfast that has so much addictive appeal it is synonymous with this little town that few outside of East Malaysia have travelled to.

Sounds almost too plain to be true? But you of course know what I'm talking about... ask yourself what your deepest cravings are and chances are foie gras in a 3 starred French establishment isn't on the menu. Sure, that stuff tastes great and has its place in your gastronomic journey through life... But much like me, I think you'd rather ignore the festivities and be eating where your heart is... no matter where you are.

Instant Gratification

2009-04-01T10:34:00.006+08:00

A word of warning - what I'm about to rave about is not highly regarded, widely accepted or deeply craved for by most. Heck - its not even that pretty to photograph... but there aren't many things that can reduce me to a blabbering, grovelling idiot stuffing my face silly than a plate of these instant noodles topped with a crispy sunny side up fried egg.

But first a bit of history. For as long as I can remember, my family have made these noodles as a simple breakfast, a quick weekend lunch, a hearty family dinner or a late night supper on arriving back home after a long flight from a family holiday. Nobody knows who first created this simple variation on the plain instant noodles - tossed in shallot oil, chopped spring onions, deep fried shallots and the (now) not so secret ingredient - Bovril. Both my grandmothers become strangely vague when pressed about the originator of what what we affectionately refer to as "black mee"... like a part of the past they either are reluctant to talk about or have embarrassingly forgotten.

But black mee holds a special place in my heart (and of course stomach). Its what I practically lived on as a cheapskate student trying to satisfy my hunger pangs with as little as possible... and now when money has become less of a consideration when feeding my considerable appetite, its still a meal I come back to whenever I need to calm a deep (and frequent) craving for this nostalgic nosh. Call me a cheap thrill seeker - but this dish for me is not only instant, its instantly gratifying.

Recipe
Ingredients
2 packets of dried instant noodles
1 1/2 tablespoons Bovril
1 tablespoon shallot oil
1 finely minced spring onio
1 tablespoon crispy fried shallots
1 free range egg

Method
1. Prepare the dressing by combining oil Bovril, spring onions and fried shallots in a bowl.
2. Fry egg sunny side up in hot pan till crispy.
3. Boil the instant noodles till al dente in rapidly boiling water and toss in dressing with two spoonfuls of cooking water.
4. Top with fried egg, extra spring onions and fried shallots.

More than just numbers

2009-03-30T09:29:00.006+08:00

Fi53fty three is creating a huge buzz in the culinary hive of high end restaurants in Singapore… and its not just about the numbers with this gem. Housed at number 53 in a refurbished heritage shop house on the quaint Aremenian Street, the 2 story restaurant makes one bold statement in keeping to only 7 private dining tables, seating a maximum of 28. Helmed by the young Singaporean head chef Michael Han, widely regarded as the next big thing here, the equation here is nouvelle cuisine done with panache.

We popped by to sample the lunch menu which offered a choice from three appetisers, mains and desserts. For starters, the air dried wagyu with beetroot and hibiscus granita was visually stunning. The latter was a refreshing palate cleanser contrasting the salty, fatty cured meat.

There was also a brilliant cold pasta dish of spaghettini in a konbu dressing and topped with (of all things) toasted hay (yes – the stuff horses eat). Refreshingly light yet packed with umami flavour, this was beautiful to look at as well as to eat.

What was outstanding however was the fruit salad of Japanese cherry tomatoes, amao strawberries and compressed watermelon smothered in a rich, zingy and salty horseradish cream. This dish is a perfect starter, awakening and refreshing the palate at the same time – and the clever contrast of ingredients is something that you’ll probably have never (or expected to have ever) tasted before. My only gripe with this dish is that the chef could have been less heavy handed with the horseradish cream – which whilst a perfect contrast for the fruit salad, was quite rich and a little overwhelming towards the end.

For mains the seared beef flap (served deliciously rare) accompanied by light as air potato soufflé and crunchy potato bits was deceptively simple but done very well. This less “luxurious” cut whilst slightly chewy had great flavour and was a joy to eat. The pan fried wild barramundi with a crispy baguette again proved that you don’t have to dress a great ingredient for great results.

The only letdown for me personally for an otherwise impressive lunch was the desserts. Whilst clever in the complementing of the base flavours, the roasted figs with olive tapenade served with Szechuan peppercorn ice cream tasted far too medicinal for me.

The chocolate caramel enoki mushrooms with raspberry granita and peanut cream on the other hand was interesting – the tart elements taking the edge nicely off the otherwise very sweet chocolate caramel.

But back to the numbers – with only 7 tables to serve in one seating, at least 5 chefs (including sous and assistants) in the kitchen, and 4 service staff, the name of the game here is an intimate dining experience.

From freshly baked bread served in a bag packed with heated stones to keep its contents warm, to fussing over the preparation and presentation of each dish (I observed 4 chefs crowding over our plates before our meals were brought out.

Nevertheless, one can’t help but wonder about the long term success of Fi53fty three as a business operation given its obvious high cost per dining customer. But with food this good and the reservation book being filled weeks in advance since opening, all that's left to do is the math.

Fi53fty three
53 Armenian Street
Singapore

Noodelicious

2009-03-16T23:37:00.004+08:00

One of my favourite food cravings whenever I'm back in Singapore is a dish that is unique to this country - Bak Chor Mee - literally minced meat noodles. This dish created by the Teochew Chinese here is composed of al dente egg noodles tossed in a heady vinegar sauce and topped with a variety of minced pork, sliced pork, pork liver and meat balls.

Whilst this ubiquitous dish is literally available at every corner, ones that are worth coming back for are few and far between. Overcooked gluggy versions to greasy bland tasting types, this is a case where oodles doesn't necessarily mean good noodles.

Thankfully, my personal pick for a good bowl of bak chor mee can still be found at Tai Hwa Pork Noodles in the sleepy suburb of Lavender. The masterpiece here is composed of perfectly cooked noodles doused with just the right amount of piquant black vinegar, topped with fresh pork bits, including the incredibly addictive meatballs which are made on the premises. The pork bone broth is surprisingly rich yet clean tasting and is the perfect accompaniment to your bowl of bliss. Deceptively simple, bak chor mee is a testament to how simple things done well can be extraordinary.

Tai Hwa Pork Noodles
Block 466 Crawford Lane
Lavender (behind MRT station)

梅菜扣肉 - Deconstructed

2009-03-15T18:02:00.007+08:00

When it comes to cooking, I've always thought that if it ain't broken - don't fix it. But sometimes curiosity gets the better of me and I start wondering if I can put a successful twist on a classic recipe.

This was the case with my take on the much loved 梅菜扣肉 - a typically Cantonese claypot stewed dish of pork belly with salt pickled chinese vegetables. I've always found this dish comforting and the depth of the sauce that comes from slow simmering of the pickled vegetables - simply alluring.

What I have done here is add an additional layer of texture by firstly slowly simmering and thus infusing the pork belly with pickled vegetables. I then crispen its skin under a hot grill to form a crackling as you would with roast pork. The result? Deliciously crispy skin encasing melt in your mouth pork belly accompanied by that much loved classic sauce. I guess even if it ain't broken, you should still always try to have fun.

Recipe
Ingredients
1.5 kg lean pork belly (ask your butcher to leave the skin on
5 cloves garlic (leave skins on)
5 shallots
2 slices ginger
4 medium sized stalks of pickled vegetables (I like to used half of the salt pickled version and the other half of the sugar pickled variation)
3 Tablespoons of rock sugar
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablepoons light soy
2 tablespoons dark soy
3 stalks spring onions bunched up in kitchen string

Method
1. Firsly soak the pickled vegetables in water. Rinse out and do this a few times until water runs clear. Remove thick stalks and discard and finely chop remaining vegetables.
2. Tie pork belly with kitchen string (to retain its shape while cooking) and place in large stock pot with garlic, shallots, ginger and wate. Slowly simmer this for 50 minutes and discard water.
3. Add remaining seasonings to pot and fill with water again - on a constant low temperature, simmer again for approximately 75 minutes. Leave pork belly to cool and marinate in sauce.
4. Remove pork belly from sauce and set aside. Poke skin with fork and rub with salt. Leave for 15 minutes and pat dry moisture from skin.
5. Place pork belly under a medium hot grill until a crispy crust forms. While waiting, reduce the sauce and season to taste. Remove pork and cut into large bite sized pieces. Plate by spooning reduced sauce with pickled vegetables onto a heated plate and placing pork belly on top.

Cheek to Cheek

2009-03-01T23:28:00.003+08:00

Heaven… I’m in heaven. I’ve finally found a tonkotsu ramen in Singapore that reminds me of Ichiran ramen which I have been raving about since my trip to Fukuoka late last year.

Santouka ramen is located in Central shopping centre, a Japanese themed mall filled with Japanese eateries serving everything from yoshoku to tonkatsu. Hailing from Hokkaido, Santouka is reknowned for this region’s version of tonkotsu ramen. And it is good – the broth here is rich, creamy, complex and simply soul warming. So rich and intensely flavoured in fact that it definitely isn’t one for the faint hearted. And whilst I still think that Hakata still makes the best pork bone broth, the version here is pure bliss.

The star of the show here however is the sliced meat to accompany your noodles. Unlike the normal char shiu you get in other establishments, Santouka uses toroniku (braised pork cheeks) as the accompaniment. I was impressed with the pork belly used at Ichiran – but was blown away by Santouka’s version. Melt in your mouth, so beautifully marbled and tender – this luxurious part of the porcine was oh so good.

What makes it all the more special is the limited qualities of this prized meat available (each pig has 200 to 300 grams worth) which limits sales to 60 servings per day – a real treat.

The noodles here are competent and done Asahikawa style which are thicker than Hakata ramen and slightly curly. They were cooked firm to the bite as they should be - but I felt lacked the delicious texture that made Ichiran so special. The gyoza served here was also competent but I still much prefer the version served at that other Fukuoka ramen icon, Ippudo, for its crisp texture and juicy fillings.

Nevertheless – I’m not complaining – a great broth, outrageously good char shiu, well cooked noodles… and most importantly, a reminder of what heaven tastes like without having to buy a plane ticket to Japan. A definite must try.

Ramen Santouka

6 Eu Tong Sen St

#02-76, The Central

Warring Plates

2009-02-21T11:17:00.005+08:00

Only in Singapore will something seemingly mundane and trivial become blown out of proportion into a fight for supremacy. I am of course talking about the humble Malay dish of Nasi Lemak - basically coconut flavoured rice with accompaniments and the all important sambal chilli.

Adam Road Food Centre is where the battle scene takes place - where two food stalls that are placed side by side serve this simple dish and draw crowds of compatriots who swear by their chosen camp as being superior.

Selera Nasi Lemak (pictured first) has won huge accolades for its product - so popular that it is rumoured that the Sultan of Brunei gets takeaway from here whenever he's in town. The use of Basmati rice results in beautifully fluffy rice lightly scented with alluring coconut milk. Their chicken wings are well marinated and perfectly fried, delightfully crispy and so addictive. But whilst many swear by the sambal chilli here, I found it a tad sweet for my liking and lacked the kick to bring this dish together.

Adam's Nasi Lemak (pictured second) has legions of fans for its offerings. The strength of their artillery lies in their sambal chilli which has a perfect balance of sweetness and heat. However, I found their rice less fluffy than its counterpart but this may be due to a heavier use of coconut milk in their recipe which some may prefer. Their chicken wings were noticeably less crispy and well flavoured - which was a bit of a letdown.

So which camp will I be eating on? Whilst I hate to take sides - Selera Nasi Lemak gets my vote for being the better overall package. It would be great if the two could produce something beautiful together for what they bring to the table... the world (or at least this part of town) would be a better place.

But just like any war, my guess is that these two will keep battling it out... if for no other reason than to give its followers something to fight for.

Selera Nasi Lemak
2 Adam Road
Stall 2 Adam Road Food Centre

Adam's Nasi Lemak
2 Adam Road
Stall 1 Adam Road Food Centre

Ruined for Ramen

2009-02-18T11:37:00.004+08:00

Since tasting the incredible tonkotsu ramen at Ichiran in Fukuoka (see blog entry "My deathrow meal"), I have been saddened at the prospect that I probably will have to wait for another trip to Japan in order to reconnect with the euphoria and pure bliss from this ultimate dish.

While having tasted greatness is something that I am deeply grateful for - I feel like I have been inflicted with ramen snobbery - every bowl of noodles outside of Japan that I have found to be pretty good in the past now tastes bland, ordinary and almost an insult to what the original versions should taste like. Yes... its true, I have inevitably become a right wing ramenist... discriminating every ramen's brothright and judging them by their texture rather than treating them as equals.

And so was the case at Menya Shinchan, a ramen specialist located in Robertson Quay in Singapore which has won a huge following with locals and Japanese expatriates alike for their handmade noodles. I ordered the spicy tonkotsu ramen - so wanting it to remind my taste buds of my experience in Fukuoka... but was sadly disappointed.

The broth was generic - lacking depth and richness found in the Ichiran version - and more importantly was low on the umami factor which is so crucial in a good bowl of ramen. The noodles while al dente didn't have the texture and consistency that made every slurp as delectable as what I wanted it to. I also found that the addition of menma (simmered bamboo shoots) distracting and unnecessary (but that's just a personal preference).

It wasn't that Menya Shinchan makes a bad bowl of ramen... I would probably have enjoyed it more if I had tasted it prior to my trip to Fukuoka... but I have been ruined for ramen... a bigot to all tonkotsu ramen outside of Japan... but I remain unrepentant - it's their fault or all tasting the same anyways.

Menya Shinchan
30 Robertson Quay
#01-05 Riverside View

Twisted fork

2009-02-16T22:18:00.003+08:00

Wafu pasta restaurants have been sprouting up all over Singapore of late - putting Japanese twists on what is essentially an Italian ingredient.

I prepared my own simple version today - essentially an alio e olio with the addition of scallions and shallots and topped with teriyaki glazed chicken and chopped chilli.

Strangely, I didn't enjoy it as much as I thought I would have. Perhaps its because I much prefer traditional sauces and ragus on my pasta... or perhaps its because I think a dish needs to have an identity to be memorable (somehow Japanese and South East Asian influences confuse rather than connect the palate).

But it was nevertheless tasty - the sweet teriyaki glaze a perfect backdrop to the heat of the chillis and the beefiness of the onions... and simple too, taking all but the time it takes to cook the pasta to prepare. And as far as quick and tasty lunches go, you won't have to twist my arm to try this one again.

Eating in the past

2009-02-15T13:48:00.020+08:00

There are a few things that I always come back for whenever I'm in Singapore - Bak Kut Teh for breakfast definitely makes the list as comfort food that reconnects me with my early memories of growing up in Singapore.

The combination of a potent, peppery pork rib soup and a full bodied pot of chinese tie guan yin tea which you brew at your own pace is the ultimate pick me up as the first meal to the day. Whilst many may cringe at the thought of having meat, rice and soup for breakfast - I love it.

My family and I have been coming to this eatery in Tiong Bahru for yonks - it may not serve the best bak kut teh around but we have seen it go through a few changes in its name and ownership. It's for this reason that we feel a strong connection from being witness to the passing of time at a shared table here.

The best time to come is as early as you can in the morning (breakfast is served from 6:30am) while a blanket of tranquil blue still envelopes the Tiong Bahru area. At this hour, your dining companions are more than likely the elderly who have been frequenting this eatery even before you were born. But just like me, I think they will keep coming back to gather at a table here... if only to keep eating in the past.

Old Tiong Bahru Bak Kut Teh
Blk 58 Seng Poh Lane

Sinful Sin Huat

2009-02-05T18:15:00.007+08:00

Singapore has made its mark on the global food map - featuring strongly in the recent Asian equivalent of the Michelin guide with its range of high profile, high calibre, high end restaurants. But ask me about the single most memorable meal I've had in Singapore and its actually found in the most unlikely of places - Geylang, the red light district of this conservative island.

Sin Huat is one of those places you are more than likely to miss while in the area - an old style coffeeshop with cracked tiles, plastic chairs and bathed in a sea of green tinged fluoroscent lighting - it makes almost no effort in its decor or ambience. The service can be at most described as aloof and the prices - astronomically high given the settings you are dining in (be prepared to pay around $70 a head for your dinner). One could be forgiven for thinking that the owner of this restaurant really couldn't care less about your dining experience.

But it's clearly and purely the food that draws the crowds in night and night again to this humble eatery - probably the best seafood you'll ever taste cooked to absoute perfection in the simplest of ways. The chef Danny Lee is a bit of an enigma - a pig farmer turned self trained cook, he insists on taking orders for every table and cooks for each table one at a time - resulting in waiting times of about 40 minutes for your food to arrive. But you never hear complaints while dining here - I think it's because everyone who makes the pilgrimage here knows what they're buying into... and the brilliant food is well worth the wait.

We started with fresh (and everything is fresh here - Danny never stores his seafood in refrigerators and everything is sourced from the fish tanks on order) scallops steamed in their shells and smothered in an incrediby addictive black bean sauce. We then had the steamed squid topped with garlic and scallions which were cut into calamari rings at the table... this was cooked perfectly - the calamari lusciously tender and delicious paired with the simple seasonings. We were then blown away by the steamed prawns in garlic, scallions and chinese wine... so fresh, so succulent... so good. Danny's handling of seafood is astounding with the natural sweetness of his ingredients shining through and highlighted by his closely guarded sauces.

But what was the climax to this already incredible meal was hands down what this place is famous for - the crab bee hoon. Sri Lankan crabs simmered in an addictive broth with thin rice noodles, scallions and crab roe... this is flavour to the max with incredible "wok hei" permeating every slurp. Tucking into this dish - decor, service and pricing became almost petty issues that not once crossed our minds... really brilliant stuff.

Sin Huat makes a trip to sin city well worth it and dares to challenge the notion of a fine dining institution. It probably will never feature in the Michelin guide and will most certainly offend many who expect more for what they pay... but with food this good - I really couldn't care less.

Sin Huat Seafood Restaurant
659-661 Geylang Lorong 35 (at the corner of Geylang Rd)
Tel: 6744-9778

Just for health kicks

2009-02-04T23:44:00.006+08:00

I'm back in Singapore and the first thing I've noticed is that my diet here isn't as healthy as it is (or should be) when compared to my lifestyle in Australia. The in your face availability of guilty pleasures propositioning you at every corner in this gastronomic island makes a salad lunch sound like a ridiculous option.

Thankfully for dishes like Lei Cha Fan (literally "Thunder Tea Rice") available at some hawker centres, there's hope yet for weak willed eaters like myself. Basically a Hakka specialty, it derives its name from the preparation of the accompanying tea soup which requires heavy pounding of various herbs and nuts. The dish itself consists of brown rice and an assortment of vegetables, tofu, peanuts and crispy anchovies as toppings. This is a vego's dream - the different textures and flavours more than making up for the lack of meat in this dish.

I love this dish because it tastes and feels like a hawker's detox remedy - but I know that one man's meat may be another man's poison. The accompanying soup is not everyone's cup of tea (literally) and may take some adjusting to. The relatively bland vegetables may also be boring to some... but if you're in desperate need to tear yourself away from the indulgence of the abundance of greasy temptations - Lei Cha Fan may just be the perfect antidote.

http://www.sbestfood.com/thundertearice (click for locations)

Cool as Hell

2009-02-02T21:42:00.006+08:00

Hellenic Republic is the sister restaurant of the uber cool Press Club in Melbourne. Inheriting the family genes, this fresh faced dining room is understated in its delivery of modern Greek food in chic surroundings.

We stopped by for a weekend breakfast and were immediately drawn to the refreshing menu here. Nothing overly pretentious, you instead get an interesting range of breakfast items to give you that all important kick start to the day.

From a creamy spanakopita topped with poached eggs to a refreshing watermelon salad with chopped mint, fetta cheese and toasted almond flakes… the food here is simple but good. The modern Greek take on standard fare here was definitely evident in the lamb ham sandwich (cured ham, fried egg and cheese in sourdough) and the omelette of loukaniko sausage and potatoes.

I also enjoyed what was labelled on the menu as “yesterday’s gemista” – basically a baked tomato stuffed with rice. The use of rice that had probably been from a risotto like dish for dinner service the previous night actually meant that the flavours were deliciously mellow. Served on crunchy hot sourdough toast with crumbled fetta – this is a great vegetarian breakfast and one that’s sure to satisfy.

Our well informed waitress was also great in helping us navigate through the Greek translations of the menu – showing what a difference professional service makes. I glanced at the dinner menu on the way out and whilst I have had limited exposure to Greek food previously, I felt confident that the process of discovering it would be a pleasant one on my next visit... and I sure as hell hope there's going to be one.

Hellenic Republic
434 Lygon Street
Brunswick East

Swine Dining

2009-02-02T10:02:00.000+08:00

My brother is an extremely gifted photographer and has started to turn his hobby into a side business – one that I know will be hugely successful with his incredible talent. I happened to be in Melbourne on his first paid wedding shoot and he was kind enough to let me tag along. The shoot was long but really enjoyable and at the end of the night, he had managed to pull together a really fantastic set of photos for the newlyweds.

Whilst the reception was held at The Prince, one of the most highly regarded restaurants in Melbourne – and the venue was in the centre of St Kilda which is packed with well known eateries, we instead craved for the simplest of foods for our supper – Cantonese roast pork.

And so we headed to our favourite spot in Melbourne for that specific craving (we have many) – Pacific BBQ Cafe in the City. This restaurant is not fancy – but it does great Cantonese roast meats. I pigged out on Charsiu pork and Siew Yok served with steamed rice topped with a fried egg. This is fast food at its best – the crackling on the perfectly roasted pork sending me to swine heaven.

Perhaps it was the long day of being out and about with my brother on his photo shoot – or perhaps it was the novelty of having something completely informal after a formal event… but our simple meal was probably the best celebratory supper I could probably have asked for.

Pacific BBQ Cafe
213 Lonsdale Street
Melbourne Vic 3000

What really matters - Yakiniku

2009-01-29T19:12:00.005+08:00

One of the best things about being in Melbourne is the chance to spend some time with my older brother who lives and works in this city he has come to love. My brother has always been someone I've always looked up to and we have a hard to describe connection that has always kept us close even though we now live in different cities.

Part of our connection is our common love for food - and on his recommendation, we arrived at Izakaya Chuji for dinner. Instead of the usual izakaya fare in the main restaurant downstairs, we headed to the upper level for a meal of yakiniku - grilled meat over wood charcoal. We ordered a very refreshing dish of yukke (a Japanese take on steak tartare) to start which was fantastic over a bowl of piping hot rice.

For our yakiniku, we selected gyu tan (ox tongue) and wagyu beef which had been marinated in tare (mirin, sake, soy, sugar). The meat selection was spot on and I was particularly fond of the gyu tan which had a great bite and flavour. The buttery wagyu was terrific with the smokiness of the charcoal perfuming the succulent slices of meat. The cuts of meat used here were great and very fresh.

I thoroughly enjoyed eating and cooking our meal with my brother over a bottle of sake. The fact that I enjoyed it so much was also a reminder of the things that really matter... It wasn't the decor (the restaurant is a little tired looking) or the service (you're left to your own devices most of the time)... it was pure and simply, the ingredients that made it... great produce and the company of one of the people you love - afterall, that's what all great meals are born of.

Izakaya Chuji
165 Lonsdale Street
Melbourne Vic 3000

Marvellous Movida

2009-01-28T09:38:00.002+08:00

In a city that prides itself on fantastic eateries tucked away in the myriad of Melbournesque alleys, Movida still stands out as one of the best places to seek out for a drink and bite to eat. A spanish tapas bar, it serves up Spanish fare with little twists... but more importantly, the cooking is excellent and everything is well executed.

We stopped by here just after lunch and were only after a small snack with a drink... but the menu proved too alluring. We started with a Croqueta of leek and mahon cheese - simple, crunchy, cheesy and utterly addictive. We then followed with a crumbed stuffed quail leg of manchego cheese and spanish ham. The quail leg was perfectly tender and the contrast of the crunchy exterior and creamy fillings done just right. Then came a Cecina of air dried wagyu beef topped with a truffle foam and poached egg. The richness of the egg, earthiness of the truffle foam and salty, buttery cecina was a real treat for the taste buds... lovely.

Already stuffed from what had become a second lunch, we couldn't resist ordering the churros with rich drinking chocolate. The version here is great - crunchy just fried doughnuts with a chewy texture, it was doused with vanilla bean sugar and great with the accompanying hot drinking chocolate.

Service here is efficient and the prices are fairly reasonable for a tapas bar of this calibre. But what I love most about Movida's food is that their inventive menu that tries to mix and match flavours as well as textures in their food.

Movida draws in the meal time crowds naturally - which is why I've always tried to make a detour here for an afternoon snack on my previous trips to Melbourne... and always walked away feeling the guilt of having had a second lunch.

1 Hosier Lane
Melbourne 3000
(Open noon till late)

Pho-natic

2009-01-21T23:15:00.005+08:00

We often do things that seem a little extreme... bothersome and well... a little fanatical. This was definitely the case when I decided to make a beef broth for pho (Vietnamese beef noodles) from beef bones that I had picked up recently from the butcher. This is a recipe adapted from Secrets of the Red Lantern by Pauline Nguyen, drawing from the dishes from her popular Vietnamese restaurant in Sydney.

Ingredients

2 beef shin bones (get your butcher to chop these into smaller pieces)

1.5kg beef shin

1 whole free range chicken

120g dried ginger

20g cinnamon

4 cloves

100g caster sugar

70g rock salt

100ml fish sauce

1 bulb ginger cut in half and char grilled

2 onions chargrilled in their skins

Method
1. Cover bones, chicken and beef in cold water with 2 tablespoons salt and leave for 2 hours. Discard water and scrub bones.

2. Return into pot and fill with 8 litres cold water. Add dried ginger, cinnamon and cloves wrapped in a muslin cloth and boil on high heat, skimming to remove scum.

3. Add sugar, salt and fish sauce and simmer for a further 2 hours. Remove beef shin and cover with stock - leave to cool.

4. Fill pot to 8 litres again and reduce flame to simmer for 5 hours. Skim excess oil off surface of broth.

5. Strain broth and discard ingredients. Wrap ginger and onions in muslin cloth and add to pot to cook for further 2 hours. Season to taste. Serve piping hot with freshly boiled pho topped with finely sliced onions. spring onions, sliced beef shin. Provide thai basil, sliced red chilli, lemon wedges and beansprouts as accompaniments.

This recipe will probably take you over 2 days to prepare, but you'll learn to develop a deeper appreciation for this dish. But a word of warning... you just may become a pho-natic too.

Jus needs tweaking

2009-01-21T22:24:00.005+08:00

Jus Burgers is the newest addition to the recent onslaught of gourmet burger joints in Perth in recent months. Located in Leederville where the young and hip hang out, this tiny eatery has a casual but cool vibe that fits in nicely with its target market.

The concept here is a burger bar which sources all of its ingredients locally (think Harvey beef, Mount Barker free range chicken, turkish bread from the local bakery, etc).

The menu is also innovative (and extensive). Aside from a list of interesting beef burgers (chorizo, wagyu, foie gras), Jus also offers up creations from chicken, pork, fish, vegetables and even kangaroo.

Cool vibe, great concept, inventive menu... Jus has all the right ingredients to be a success, and its already drawing in the crowds. Unfortunately however, there are quite a few tweaks required to their burgers if they are to have longevity in their popularity.

We ordered the Blue Cheese burger with grilled field mushrooms and the Wagyu burger with wasabi mayonnaise, both on wholemeal buns. The former was smothered a little too generously in blue cheese sauce (as opposed to real blue cheese) which made it a mess to eat but also a little too overpowering. The latter, which should have been juicy, succulent and full of flavour typical from wagyu (even if it is in a burger) lost alot of this appeal because it was overcooked - resulting in a tough patty that was dry and very bland. Both burgers suffered from a bun that was not toasted enough - which meant doughy bread that absorbed way too much of the accompanying sauces.

But all is not lost - the staff and owner of the restaurant are incredibly passionate about their venture and it shows in their eagerness to get things right. With tweaks in their execution, the team here have great potential to do jus-tice to this burger bar.

Jus Burgers
743 Newcastle St
Leederville 6007

Looking behind the cover

2009-01-18T09:11:00.004+08:00

Another one of my favourite haunts in Perth is Jun, a yakitori and kushiyaki specialist tucked away in a dark alley of the unpopular end of Hay Street. This part of town is unattractive, dreary and in desperate need of a face lift.

Jun at first glance can be quite intimidating - hidden downstairs of a dark alleyway with its doors splattered with random graffiti, you wouldn't walk in here unless you have been told of what lies beneath or have tasted its offerings yourself.

I am a big fan of the yakitori here, particularly the sunagimo (chicken giblets), nankotsu (chicken cartilage) and tebasaki (chicken wings). All perfectly grilled and seasoned with your choice of shio (salt) or tare (teriyaki) glaze.

Jun also moves into izakaya territory with its extensive menu which extends beyond yakitori. They also have a daily specials menu that highlights seasonal items, something I think is really cool. On the day we visited, we had a deliciously fruity and succulent kumato (Japanese black tomato), served simply sliced with sea salt and a mayonnaise dipping sauce. The highlight for me was tori sasami shiso maki furai, a perfectly crispy deep fried dish of crumbed chicken tenderloin wrapped in shiso leaves. So good.

We also had a few other interesting deep fried dishes, including tako karaage oroshi ponzu (deep fried octopus in ponzu sauce) and sunagimo karaage (deep fried marinated chicken giblets). All extremely tasty paired with icy cold Sapporo beer. But what I always love finishing the meal off with here is an order of yaki onigiri chazuke, a crispy grilled japanese rice ball topped with salmon flakes in a heartwarming broth of dashi and toasted sesame seeds.

Jun is a great place to come to for drinks (BYO and there's a bottle shop just a few shops down) with stunning food at reasonable prices. Its particularly popular with the local Japanese business community, work mates who come together after a long week of work to have a good time.

You'd be forgiven for not realising that there's such a gem of a restaurant in this part of town... but you won't forgive yourself for not checking Jun out for yourselves once you have.

Jun Izakaya

568(B1) Hay St. Perth 6000
Phone: (08)9221-3339

Nasu Dengaku - My Version

2009-01-16T10:10:00.008+08:00

Nasu Dengaku is a delicious dish of eggplant broiled with miso. I love eggplant done this way for the creamy texture of the eggplant and the richness of the miso when grilled. Whilst usually a side dish, I like to have it as the main event, accompanied by pan fried chicken and tofu steaks. I also add, unconventionally, parmesan cheese when broiling the eggplant which forms a beautifully salty crust that I think is great with the sweetness of the miso.

Ingredients

For the nasu dengaku

1 medium sized eggplant cut into 1.5 inch steaks (rub with salt, leave for 15 minutes, rinse off and pat dry with kitchen paper)

1 tablespoon white miso (or shiromiso)

2 teaspoons fine sugar

3 tablespoons mirin

2 tablespoons sake

1 handful of grated parmesan (as usual, try to get your hands on parmigiano reggiano)

mixture of corn and plain flour for coating

For the tofu steaks

1 block of firm tofu cut into 1 inch steaks (wrap in kitchen paper and place a weight on top to drain excess liquid)
2 cloves finely minced garlic

mixture of corn and plain flour for coating

salt and pepper to taste

For the pan fried chicken

1 free range chicken breast cut into 4 one inch thick steaks

1 tablespoon mirin

1 tablespoon sake

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

few drops of sesame oil

Method

1. Lightly coat the eggplant in the flour mixture and pan fry over medium high heat until golden brown (you don't have to cook this completely). Stick these into your oven grill at its lowest setting.

2. Coat tofu in garlic, seasonings and flour mixture - then pan fry till golden brown. Cover in foil and leave under grill to keep warm.

3. Marinate chicken for at least 20 minutes and then pan fry quickly in a hot pan, turning over several times to prevent burning. Cover with foil to rest and set aside.

4. Mix miso topping (excluding cheese) and cover eggplant steaks. Turn grill to a medium heat and cook for a further 5 minutes (by which time the miso should be bubbling). In the mean time, simmer the remaining miso sauce in a pan until alcohol has burned off. Then, sprinkle eggplant with parmesan cheese generously and place under grill again under the highest setting - this should only take around 2-3 minutes until a crust forms.

5. To serve, slice chicken diagonally and place at centre of plate, place grilled eggplant on top. Place tofu steaks around the plate. Drizzle remaining miso sauce on plate and garnish with more parmesan cheese and finely sliced spring onions.

Spaghetti with Slow cooked Veal Ragu

2009-01-15T23:38:00.004+08:00

One of the great things about being back in Australia is the affordability and availability of great ingredients to whip up a delicious but simple pasta meal... something that I really missed when I was in Singapore. This is a dead simple dish but very tasty and perfect for a fuss free mid week dinner.

Ingredients
400g good quality veal shank (which your butcher can happily mince up for you)
350g dried good quality spaghetti

Bottle of Passata
Glass of white wine
2 cloves Garlic thinly sliced
2 dried bay leaves
Diced carrots, celery and onions
Roughly chopped Italian parsley
Extra virgin olive oil
The all important parmesan (get your hands on Parmigiano Reggiano if you can get some - it makes all the difference)
Splash of full cream.

Salt and pepper to taste

Method
1. Slowly fry up the carrots, celery, onions and garlic in the olive oil with a pinch of sea salt on a low heat and cover (this is to allow the vegetables to steam and not burn) - after around 5 minutes,the onions should be slightly translucent.
2. Add mince to pan and brown. Pour in the passata, chopped parsley stalks, bay leaves. Bring to a simmer, turn down to a medium low heat, cover and leave to cook for approximately 40 minutes. You can basically forget about the ragu at this stage and go about and do whatever you need to do.
3. 10 minutes before the end of cooking time, boil up the pasta in plenty of salted boiling water.
4. Season the ragu with salt, pepper and a teaspoon of sugar. Add three handfuls of the grated cheese, splash of cream and toss the pasta through.

Serve up on a heated plate garnished with more cheese and chopped parsley.

A simply cooked meal that's simply delicious - exactly what home cooking should be all about.

Ria - When change is good

2009-01-13T23:44:00.006+08:00

My favourite place in Perth to get a fix of good Malaysian food is Ria in Leederville. Of course, Malaysian food, just like other great cuisines, is very regional - but Ria doesn't exactly subscribe to any particular region per se. What it does offer up, however, is fantastic curries, stews, salads and rice dishes that are distinctly flavoured, distinctly unique but distinctly Malaysian in its roots.

I particularly love the Hainanese stewed oxtail - melt in your mouth oxtail cooked in a rich and very moreish sauce with a good lashing of kaffir lime leaves. The Portugese styled baked fish is a perfectly moist fish fillet baked with an intense sambal sauce in a banana leaf - great bite to this dish and oh so good. All the curries here are made from fresh rempahs (spice pastes) which definitely makes a huge difference in the way of flavour and aroma (just take a whiff by walking past this restaurant and you'll know what I mean).

Ria is a huge success in Perth and you'll be hard pressed to get a table if you don't book ahead. But business hasn't always been good - you see the owner Richard Serrano, of Italian heritage, and his wife, Deborah Ting, a Malaysian, first started an Italian trattoria at this site. Things didn't run smoothly for their initial venture and so, biting the bullet, they renovated the restaurant and re-opened as a modern Malaysian restaurant, giving Deborah an opportunity to shine in a cuisine she is obviously very comfortable with. And the rest, as they say, is history.

It probably wasn't an easy decision to completely revamp what must have been a labour of love... but Richard and Deborah are now all the better off for it. Change can sometimes be daunting and often driven by circumstance... but in Ria's case, it also just happens to taste darn good.

Breakfast in Perth: Lemon Lane

2009-01-13T10:12:00.008+08:00

Its good to be back in Perth. Clean air, pristine beaches, friendly neighbours... and as much as I love this sleepy city, one thing that does disappoint is the variety of good dining options available. Compared to its sister cities of Melbourne and Sydney (and also Singapore where I've spent the past nine months), Perth struggles to provide hungry foodseekers like myself something to look forward to.

Thankfully, there are still a handful of worthy eateries that try to set themselves apart from the usual dreary establishments by serving up interesting and well prepared grub. Lemon Lane in Claremont is one of these places. Tucked away in a narrow alley in this affluent neighbourhood, Lemon whips up a great coffee (something that Singapore still struggles to do) and delicious fresh juice concoctions.

We skipped the usual big breakfast fry up and opted instead for their hash cakes and corn fritters. The first was a twist on eggs benedict - smoked salmon sandwiched between two freshly made potato patties, topped with wilted spinach and a perfectly poached free range egg. And instead of being smothered with sauce, the hollandaise was delicious and thoughtfully placed on the side.

The latter was just as good, a play on Canadian pancakes, it was instead freshly made corn fritters sandwiching candied bacon and drizzled with maple syrup. The roasted tomato and avocado salsa on the side was perfect in cutting through the richness of this dish. Sleek decor, good food, great coffee and chilled out vibe... my only gripe with this place is that the food does take some time and it probably does need to constantly update its menu to keep things fresh and interesting.

Perth may still be a sleepy city that has a long way to go in reaching the culinary diversity of the likes of Melbourne, Sydney and Singapore - but thanks to places like Lemon Lane, its still giving me something good to wake up to.

Lemon Lane
Bay View Terrace
Claremont, WA 6010

Kiri Japanese Restaurant

2009-01-07T21:53:00.006+08:00

I had the pleasure of celebrating my birthday recently at Kiri Japanese Restaurant in Perth (yes… I’m back after a 9 month separation from my adopted home). I must disclose at this point however that I am not completely impartial in this review… you see - the owner and chef of this tiny little eatery in Shenton Park, Taka, is a friend through my sister.

Taka and his charming wife, Noriko, started Kiri out of sheer passion and commitment, after having come to Australia to provide for an education for their two little (and unbelievably cute) daughters. Having started out working at run of the mill “Westernised” Japanese restaurants, this hardworking couple ventured into their own catering business and eventually found the perfect spot to call their own. And their efforts have paid off – Kiri is hugely popular and has become a rising star in the very limited choice of good Japanese restaurants in Perth.

A trained kaiseki chef, Taka will gladly whip up the Japanese equivalent of a degustation menu for you if you book 3 days in advance. Given that we didn't have enough time to make a booking as we had just arrived in Perth, we instead left it to Taka to cook up dishes from his ala carte menu and to only stop when when we had our fill. And so... 13 dishes later, we finished our dinner completely stuffed but very happy.

Amongst the highlights were the nasu dengaku (grilled eggplant with miso sauce), a beautifully presented platter of fresh sashimi and the grilled wagyu fillet with a ponzu dipping sauce.

Kiri is a fine little restaurant that will go far. I for one am really happy that Taka and Noriko are finally reaping the rewards from their commitment and passion. Their journey has been tough but theirs is a lesson of hard work at something they believe in... and as far as becoming wiser with age, that's one lesson I hope to be reminded of at all my birthdays.

Macau: Hits & Misses

2008-12-31T17:27:00.003+08:00

We managed to squeeze in a stopover in Macau at the end of our stay in Hong Kong. A 40 minute ferry ride away, this gaming city packed with tourists is charming in its own unique way with its Portugese influences evident from the architechture through to its food.

The Portugese egg tarts from Macau are worth the trip alone - buttery, flaky pastry housing eggy hot custard... these delicious bites live up to the hype provided by foodies who manage to pull themselves away from the many casinos to sample the local fare.

What was disappointing however were the Macau grilled pork chop buns. We sampled the ones made at Tai Lei, one of the most reputable on the island. The long queue starts at around 3pm which is when the buns go on sale - I was expecting lots given its obvious popularity. But I was unimpressed. This snack is basically a greasy slab of pork chop housed in a baked bun. Not particulary interesting... not particularly good... and definitely not worth the particularly long wait.

Hong Kong: Freshness Burger

2008-12-30T22:23:00.003+08:00

It seems almost silly to be writing about hamburgers while we’re on the subject of Hong Kong… but Freshness Burger, a Japanese burger chain that has become hugely popular in Hong Kong (but not yet available in other parts of Asia), is really good.

The classic Cheeseburger is my favourite… an incredibly juicy patty (watch that white shirt), fresh lettuce, tomato, onion and grilled cheese… the burgers here are simple but very well made. There is also a wide range of interesting drinks available (Think matcha lattes, yuzu sodas, etc) which makes this burger chain a breath of fresh air in the not so fresh world of dodgy fast food joints.

Hong Kong: The Way Things Were

2008-12-29T08:00:00.001+08:00

The oldest teahouse in Hong Kong is hard to get into… there was a two hour waiting time during peak lunch hour in order to secure a table (which we made full use of by snacking around the area). Was it worth the wait? Well… yes and no.

The dim sum here isn’t outstanding in today’s standards where many restaurants have made it an art - offering freshly made cooked morsels with interesting twists cooked to order. What you get instead is a taste of what yum cha in Hong Kong used to taste and feel like. Traditional favourites of steamed prawn dumplings (Har Gow), steamed pork dumplings (Siu Mai) and steamed rice in lotus leaves are on offer here.

What you also get is great service – the waiters here have all done their jobs for a long, long time (some have spent their entire working life here) and it shows in their attention and unobtrusive care while you dine.

Sure the dumpling casings could have been a little thinner and the egg tarts could have had a more flaky pastry… but for a restaurant that gives you a dying bit of history and looks after you while you have it, Luk Yu Teahouse may just be worth a visit.

Luk Yu Teahouse
24-26 Stanley Street
Central, Hong Kong

Hong Kong: Chinese Morsels

2008-12-28T08:00:00.002+08:00

There’s a lot that I like about Wang Fu, located in Central. The food is fast, hot, tasty and affordable. This unpretentious eatery is a great place to go to if you’re craving for Chinese dumplings… the pork, scallop and yellow chive dumplings were great and definitely worth coming back for. We were somewhat disappointed with the noodle dishes we ordered, which lacked flavour. There is however an extensive menu of Northern Chinese bites which I’ll love to try next time I’m back in town.

Wang Fu

98A Wellington Street

Central, Hong Kong

Hong Kong: Myths & Legends

2008-12-27T08:00:00.002+08:00

There are some establishments that have achieved legendary status for their food. Some manage to retain the edge that awarded them this status… others become commercially successful but lose that special appeal in the process. Yung Kee is unfortunately one of those restaurants that fall in the latter category. Highly awarded and highly acclaimed – this eatery is recommended in gourmet magazines, visited by Michelin starred chefs and lauded for its roasted goose, its star attraction.

On our visit, we were not only disappointed with the food – but also with the service. The roasted goose was decent – but not something I would come rushing back for… the skin was not as delightfully crisp as many have raved about and the accompanying rice… overcooked and mushy (one of my pet peeves). The century eggs here however are worth a try – very fresh (if that can be said of century eggs to begin with) – the yolk is deliciously creamy and definitely not something you’ll get in commercially made versions.

But what was most disappointing was the service – for a highly acclaimed restaurant, service was unpersonable, short and at times plain apathetic. My personal bad experience at Yung Kee probably won’t stop the hordes from packing it in to this popular restaurant… but its reminded me of a simple fact - that legends can sometimes be myths as well.

Hong Kong: One Hit Wonder

2008-12-26T08:02:00.001+08:00

One of my favourite places to eat whenever I’m in Hong Kong is Gow Kei Beef Brisket. Tucked away in the charismatic back streets of Sheung Wan… this place does only one thing – beef brisket. But that doesn’t stop crowds of regular patrons and curious foodies from coming at all times throughout the day to sample two basic variations of this dish – beef broth or curried stew. You even get to choose from egg or rice noodles to accompany your bowl of heaven.

The beef broth is pure robust bovine goodness and is great spiked with a splash of red wine vinegar that you help yourself to at the table. The curried stew (order the beef tendon version if it hasn’t sold out) has fantastic depth and has a surprisingly strong spicy kick that’s sure to work up a sweat. The brisket here is wonderfully tender and a real joy to eat. Both versions are winners due to the brilliant beef stock used in their preparation.

One thing you’ll notice when you visit Gow Kei is how despite the crowds, the restaurant is strangely tranquil and quiet. Instead of the loud chatter you get in other eateries around Hong Kong, all you hear is silent slurping and a sense of appreciation and reverence for the dish that has made this one of the most highly recommended local eateries in Hong Kong.

九記牛腩

21 Gough Street

Sheung Wan

My Christmas Dinner

2008-12-25T19:03:00.000+08:00

Roast organic aged rump marinated in rosemary, garlic and wholegrain mustard plus a roasted whole turkey… that was my contribution to our Christmas dinner last year. I remember rushing around making orders for the vacuum packed meats from my butcher in Perth so that I could fly with them back to Singapore… Just in time to cook up and share in a Christmas meal with my family.

Ever since my brother, sister and I started developing a love for cooking, we made it a point to prepare dinner at this very special time of the year when we all gathered back in Singapore to be with mum and dad. Not all our attempts were successes… and this was the case with the Christmas dinner of 2007. My turkey was slightly overdone and my roast beef… ever so under. But – it didn’t seem to matter… I remember my dad thoroughly enjoying the tough white meat and remarking how tasty the beef was.

You see - even back then we were already suspecting that it would be our last Christmas meal together as a family… Dad was starting to really deteriorate in health and had been told of the relapse of his cancer by doctors. And so – whilst the quality of the food was probably lacking… the appreciation for it was overwhelming. Food at that Christmas dinner was not just about how perfectly everything was done… but how perfect it was that we were all partaking of it at our family table. That night, we remembered stories that made us laugh… and for a moment, forgot about illness and suffering.

Fast forward 12 months to Christmas Eve and I find myself on a flight with my mum to Perth where we will join my brother and sister. Perhaps we have all been a little preoccupied of late… but even right now our Christmas dinner menu still remains unwritten. And whilst my dad won’t be joining us at the dinner table this year (he’s probably having a heavenly feast beyond our wildest imaginations)… my wish is that our Christmas meal will just be like our last… a blessing we’ll always remember.

Hong Kong: Old School Passion

2008-12-23T15:49:00.003+08:00

Long time readers of this blog (bless you for your patience) will know that I have a soft spot for perfectly cooked rice. It was for this reason that I made it a personal mission to seek out the famous Hong Kong dish of Claypot Rice (煲仔飯) on a recent trip there to attend a close friend's wedding.

Wing Hup Sing (永和成) in Sheung Wan has made quite a name for itself for its interpretation of this dish. This family run restaurant is as old school as they come - and helmed by the grandfather of the family who first developed the technique of baking his claypot rice in a baker's oven (given his background as a Chinese pastry chef).

The most popular dish at this humble restaurant is the shredded beef and raw egg claypot rice... and it is good. Piping hot with perfectly cooked grains - the heat from the rice cooks the egg which is mixed through. But claypot rice purists be warned - because this version is not cooked on a charcoal stove but is instead baked, there is no charred burnt crust at the bottom of the pot which some may find disappointing.

But regardless of which school you come from, you will be impressed by this establishment's dedication to perfectly cooked rice. The founder of the restaurant is known to request patrons not to use a spoon when they first dig into their meal as he feels that just cooked rice is slightly moist and may become mushy if eaten with a spoon straight away.

On my visit, a regular customer was overheard to be discussing with the owner at what point sauce should be added to the rice during the cooking process. This may not be the best claypot rice that I've ever tasted - but as far as passion and dedication goes - its one place I'll definitely be coming back to whenever I'm back in Hong Kong.

永和成茶餐厅

Wing Hup Sing
G/F, 113-115 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan

(Closed on Sundays)

Miyajima: Thoughtful dining

2008-12-22T22:29:00.000+08:00

Miyajima is an island off Hiroshima and is well known for its incredible autumn colours in November. This means hordes of tourists in the daytime who come to take in the amazing colours of red, orange and yellow splashed across the palette of this beautiful island.

We were fortunate enough to stay the night at Iwaso, the oldest and most highly regarded ryokan on the island - which meant that we were able to experience this picturesque place in all its tranquility when night fell. It also meant that we were treated to the most incredible kaiseki dinner at the ryokan in our own private dining room.

This meal was simply stunning and a perfect example of what a great kaiseki meal means - an art that balances the tastes, textures, colours and appearances of food using only fresh seasonal ingredients to reflect the identity of the locality which it is served.

The presentation of each of the 14 or so courses made you feel like you were unwrapping a present at each course, culminating in the highlight of the meal which was an individual pot of mushroom flavoured rice that was left to boil at the table at the beginning of your meal. This was perfectly timed to be perfectly cooked when you reached the end of your courses.

Dining the kaiseki way really awakens you to an appreciation of ingredients and the thought that the chef puts into ensuring that the diner enjoys a meal that satisfies all your senses... and it proves without a doubt that at the end of the day - it really is the thought that counts.

Japanese Fast Food

2008-12-18T23:45:00.000+08:00

Japan shows the rest of the world that is dominated by golden arches and an old man in a white suit that fast food can be both delicious and good for you.

Throughout our trip travelling from Osaka down to Kyushu on the shinkansen, we were amazed at the quality of food on the go in Japan. Bento boxes, sandwiches, salads – everything was super fresh, well prepared and didn’t give leave us feeling like McGreasy, McGuilty or McQueasy.

Best of all - fast food in Japan is also beautifully presented (as is everything else in this country obsessed with perfection). Call me crazy - but I'll be happy to be labelled a fast food junkie in this amazing country...

Fukuoka Part 3: Fine Street Dining

2008-12-18T23:21:00.000+08:00

Imagine getting the freshest and best ingredients simply prepared by your chef before your eyes… being cramped up in a little counter table on the streetside… total strangers squashed up right next to you… cold beer… loud conversations… and you basically have yatai… street dining Fukuoka style.

We had a fantastic meal at Tsukasa - a well known yatai run by the lady chef and her family of helpers. She does all the cooking which is really impressive… basically handling the grill as well as the deep fryer, she whips up the most succulent dishes to go with your choice of beverage.

Grilled beef tongue on a bed of onions was so simple… but so perfect in every way… as was the grilled shitake mushrooms seasoned only with sea salt. The mixed grilled dish of pork, squid, chicken gizzards and beef rolled with shiso leaves were great and we’ll never forget the massive local oysters that were simply barbecued and served with a wedge of lemon.

A meal at a yatai doesn’t come cheap – but if you enjoy great food in unpretentious surroundings and hearty communal eating – this is the place to come when you’re ever in Fukuoka.

Fukuoka Part 2: Ippudo

2008-12-18T23:02:00.001+08:00

This ever popular ramen specialist has two basic versions of this dish – Akamaru (a richer tasting broth with spicy miso paste and garlic oil), and Shiromaru (a lighter tasting version). They also serve tiny bite sized gyozas which are rumoured to have been made smaller so they can be easily eaten by the dainty women of Fukuoka (which didn’t stop us from shoving these crispy morsels into our mouths like ravenous barbarians).

You get a great vibe from entering this place, loud slurping echoing from the communal dining tables and the satisfied faces all round. The tonkotsu ramen here is great – the rich creamy broth enveloping the thin and firm egg noodles cooked perfectly al dente. There is also a wide range of condiments laid out on the table to spice up your bowl of noodles to your liking. Don’t forget to order kadaema (extra noodles) if you’re still a little peckish and still have broth in your bowl.

Ippudo and Ichiran (previously blogged) are both highly regarded for tonkotsu ramen – both becoming successful chains around Japan (and recently even in New York). My personal preference? Ichiran still does it for me with their addictive special sauce and a more balanced tasting broth (Ippudo’s has a much stronger and richer taste which can get a little overwhelming).

But judge for yourself if you’re ever in Fukuoka – and have both a few times (like I did)… just to be sure.

Fukuoka Part 1: My death row meal

2008-12-04T20:43:00.001+08:00

I’ve always wondered what final meal would be – logically it has to be something pretty special to satisfy unfulfilled desires and ignite memories of how great good food can make you feel. Well - I’m happy to say that my current pick for nourishment before walking the green mile would have to be tonkotsu ramen from Ichiran in the beautiful city of Fukuoka.

Dining at Ichiran is a pretty intimate experience. You start at the front entrance by purchasing little meal coupons of items you would like to order (ramen, extra sliced pork, boiled egg, etc) from a vending machine (another Japanese obsession). You then proceed to pick up an order sheet and proceed to your dining booth. Yes… that’s right, eating here is strictly a personal affair – you sit at an individual cubicle facing a curtain which is lifted only for your order to be served. No distractions from conversations, noisy diners or even peering wait staff… its just you – and a piping hot bowl of ramen.

You then customise your meal (eg. Strength of flavour, amount of oil in soup, texture of noodles, amount of garlic, etc) by circling accordingly on the order sheet, press the order button and await as your slip is taken into the kitchen.

What arrives is nothing short of life changing experience – an incredibly rich and creamy pork bone soup with al dente noodles and sliced belly pork, this dish put Kyushu on the noodle map of Japan. The soup here really awakens the senses and the uncontrolled loud slurping of the perfectly cooked noodles reduces you to a very primal state – savouring every moment in your little own ramen heaven. What really makes this dish is also the special sauce which has a complex chilli base and 30 other ingredients. Mindblowing.

As far as death row meals go – this one really hits the spot. How good was it? I returned every single day for the three days I was in Fukuoka for this dish. Some may think this excessive… but like they say - you only live once.

Osaka Part 4: Breakfast in the Rising Sun

2008-12-02T14:24:00.000+08:00

If I had to eat one breakfast for the rest of my life – it would have to be the Japanese way. With the staples of a steaming bowl of quality koshikari rice, soothing miso soup, pickled vegetables and a grilled fish item – you get all the nutrition you need to ease you into your day without the grease and guilt that accompanies a breakfast fry up.

During this trip to Japan, we were blown away by the welcome meal to the day in hotels, ryokans and bento boxes on shinkansens. The highlight for me would have to be in Osaka at the Dojima hotel where we spent two nights.

Breakfast here next to a serene Japanese garden is a beautiful thing – aside from the staples previously mentioned, the breakfast tray was garnished with other tasty morsels, including hiyyakko tofu, a delicious poached egg in a yuzu infused dashi stock and the main event, a melt in your mouth wagyu beef sukiyaki. Everything was delicately balanced, stunningly presented and thoughtfully put together.

You finish a Japanese breakfast with a zen like sense of fulfilment. Knowing that you’ve fed your body the freshest ingredients packed with nutrition and having it taste darn good at the same time is just so satisfying… and at the beginning of the day that’s always going to be something worth waking up to.

Osaka Part 3: Ordinary Osaka

2008-11-23T21:27:00.000+08:00

What visit to Osaka can be complete without tasting two of its most famous exports – Takoyaki and Okonomiyaki. Just like the inhabitants of the city that created them, these tasty morsels are colourful, down to earth and completely inseparable from icy cold beer.

Takoyaki is best eaten piping hot – the best ones house a creamy centre with a secret combination of vegetables and fresh octopus. Smothered in either home made shoyu sauce or mayonnaise (or even both) and topped with bonito flakes – this is great snack food that was a great pick me up after a long day of shopping.

Okonomiyaki can be found all over town – we visited Chibo, a well established chain that still packs in the crowds after its many years of operation. Here the dish is prepared by a chef in front of your eyes and then transferred to your own tabletop hot plate where you add as much condiments as you like. From the more traditional kurobuta pork to mentaiko (spicy cod roe) cream okonomiyaki… you can opt to top yours off with a bucketload of negi (spring onions) and tamago (fried egg sunny side up).

You can also choose to have the traditional version which is made of batter or one with one that is made from yakisoba – the choice is completely yours… which makes this a very fun dining option.

Sizzling hot food with crispy cold beer – Osaka brings it to the very basics of a good night out… and frankly - what more could anyone ask for?

Osaka Part 2: Love at first bite

2008-11-22T21:12:00.001+08:00

Sometimes you just know… and this was certainly the case when I had the very best example of yoshoku (Japanese adaptations of Western dishes) in Osaka. This charming eatery that has been around for over 60 years makes your heart leap when you taste their unpretentious dishes that are packed with flavour and depth.

Their famous cabbage meat roll probably has some origins from Russian food – but it is distinctly a Japanese adaptation with an out of world combination of sauces – a demi glace sauce that has been stewed for at least a week over a charcoal stove on one half and a house made curry sauce on the other. The result? Comfort food that teases and satisfies you, all at the same time.

The hambaaga steak served with a side of spaghetti, garden salad and topped with a fried egg was also delicious – married together by the cherubic demi-glace sauce.

We also tried the restaurant’s cream korroke which was delightfully crispy on the outside and lusciously creamy on the inside. The filling was what dreams are made of, with hints of cinnamon and moreish spices.

The cotlette kareraisu is perfectly crispy pork cutlet served on top of a bed of rice and smothered with the restaurant’s famous curry sauce. The curry here is fruity, spicy and really really good… nothing at all like the packet paste varieties that have become so common outside of Japan and dare I say, served under the guises of house made curries in restaurants.

But what sealed the deal was the hayashi raisu. Basically a beef stew… this dish doesn’t immediately prepare you for the taste sensation that just hits you. The sauce is incredibly complex and has so much depth that you need to take time enjoy this one. Savoury, sweet, tangy, rich… becoming apparent with each satisfying mouthful.

Yoshoku may not be traditional Japanese food - but the execution, attention to detail and balance of flavours is without doubt something only the Japanese could have done - to turn the ordinary into something truly extraordinary.

Maruyoshi Grill
1-6-72 Abeno-sujo, Abeno-ku, Osaka
5 mins walk from Exit 12 of Tennoji station
Tel: 06-6649-3566

Osaka Part 1: Oh My Omuraisu

2008-11-21T19:54:00.000+08:00

One of the most well known creations out of Osaka is Omuraisu - or fried rice wrapped up in an egg omelette. And what better way to understand this simple but utterly delicious dish than to find the original restaurant that created it - Hokkyokusei in Nishi-shinsaibashi.

Around 1925, a customer of this iconic restaurant with a weak stomach would come on a daily basis to have omelette and rice. One day, the owner decided to mix things up a bit and stir fried some rice with ketchup, and wrapped it up in a thin egg omlette - thereby giving birth to the every popular dish.

Today, Omuraisu at Hokkyokusei comes in many variations - from rice fried in dry curry, to oyster fried rice to the ever popular original - chicken fried rice. What is common is the perfectly cooked omelette that neatly envelopes the piping hot rice, and served with a delicious sauce (depending on the variation ordered).

My personal favourite was the oyster Omuraisu - incredibly fresh oysters incorporated into rice stir fried in soy sauce. But what made it all the more unforgettable is the tradition and history that comes with dining in this establishment, scoffing down this unpretentious but truly tasty dish next to a peaceful garden courtyard. Perfect...

Hokkyokusei

2-7-27 Nishi-shinsaibashi, Chuo-ku, Osaka
5 min walk from Exit 7 of Shinsaibashi Subway Station
Tel: 06-6211-7829

Going to Japan: Plane & Simple

2008-11-20T14:59:00.000+08:00

Just arrived in Osaka today from a red eye flight from Singapore, ready to embark on a 10 day journey through the Southern part of Japan.

I'm not afraid to admit it - planning for this trip consisted mostly of researching for must eats in this gastronomic wonderland... and I have already tasted a few winners in my first few hours here. But the earliest wake up call for my taste buds started surprisingly of all places... cruising at 30,000 feet with breakfast on the plane.

Don't get me wrong - I hate airplane meals with a passion and often leave their stomach churning creations untouched. More often than not, I order the meal for the same reason many buy a lottery ticket - simply for the "what if?".

But I was blown away by the excellent breakfast on my flight into Osaka this morning. In the spirit of the land of the rising Sun, a beautiful bento box was served with nine courses immaculately presented. Each was unique in colour, flavour and texture... heck, even the accompanying miso soup was made with fresh clams!

Put plane and simply, the Japanese just do it better...

China Clubbing

2008-11-16T10:12:00.001+08:00

China Club in Hong Kong is a retro-chic Shanghai themed restaurant that is strictly members only. A highly successful concept there - making business dining and wining both exclusive and very sexy. Thus, it was with high hopes that the same establishment was transplanted in Singapore back in late 2001.

This restaurant has all the right ingredients - the impeccably designed space with dark wood furniture, high ceilings and quality chinaware (all embossed with the club's red star emblem), housed atop the 52nd floor of the Capital Tower in Singapore's Central Business District. The views from the restaurant are spectacular and the service is spot on.

Whilst it doesn't boast an inventive dim sum menu that we sampled for a late lunch... most items here are well executed and hard to fault. The pork buns were fluffy with a deliciously sweet char siew filling... the vegetable crystal dumplings with its crunchy filling and chewy exterior provided a great contrast in textures... the steamed carrot cake was perfectly light and the pork trotters stewed in black vinegar and quail eggs... simply divine.

But surprisingly, I was told that the restaurant has not been doing well since it was established - as a matter of fact we were only one of three other tables dining for a Sunday lunch in the expansive restaurant.

Clever packaging, decent food, good service, great views - what's not to love? Well for one, being a members only establishment does have its pitfalls - you only cater to those who care to fork out for membership and a monthly subscription fee (that isn't cheap) just to gain access to the restaurant. And for that price - I better hope the food is outrageously spectacular.

Maybe Singaporeans are more discerning in terms of what they pay for as compared to their Hong Kong counterparts... but for the sake of China Club, I sure hope they let down that velvet rope just a little so that exclusivity does not prevent more from enjoying a fine dining experience.

Pub Trawl

2008-11-14T18:23:00.001+08:00

There aren't many things better in life than crispy fish, crispy chips and crispy cold beer. Whilst this simple fare is widely available (and done very well) in Australia, it is more of a rarity in Singapore. And so I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy this pub staple at Tuckshop, a small diner in Tanjong Pagar that serves up a small menu of unpretentious eats (think steak sandwiches, lamb chops, salads, etc) to go with your choice of beers on tap, including Asahi (my personal favourite).

The generous serving of lightly battered dory was brilliant - extremely crispy and the fish still beautifully moist. The icy cold Asahi beer went down a treat and the beautiful pairing brought a smile to my face. Tuckshop also has a live band on certain nights that plays a mix of soul and jazz. And to top it off - prices are extremely reasonable - Dining at happy hour, dinner came to just $15 including my drink. I guess life just got a little better...

Kuala Lumpur Eats - Sweet, Savoury, Sin

2008-11-09T22:29:00.000+08:00

This is a must have whenever you're in Kuala Lumpur - the city's take on the ubiquitous stir fried hokkien noodles. Unique from any other version, it is characterised by its thick chewy noodles fried with delicious "wok hei" in a secret black sauce and the all important pork crackling. Sticky, savoury, sweet and very sinful.

We had the version offered at Kum Lin Kei located on Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown - Petaling Street. Drop by when night falls and soak up the atmosphere in this iconic street... and while you're here, indulge yourself in some seriously good noodles that will have you praying for more.

Kuala Lumpur Eats - Chilli Thrills

2008-11-08T15:25:00.000+08:00

Alright... first up the noodles from this noodle chain aren't for everyone. Whilst it boasts a menu of freshly hand made noodles, the version I tasted on my visit were overcooked (one of my pet peeves) and not particularly interesting.

However, the main attraction here is the chilli condiments that accompany the noodles... there is a heart-stopping array of chilli in its various forms when it comes to getting that all important kick to your meals. Simply add as much or as little to your noodles topped with a poached egg and crispy anchovies. Not the best noodles around - but if you're out looking for chilli thrills - this sure does the trick.

Face to Face

11A-1, Jalan PJU8/51

Perdana Business Centre

Damansara Perdana

Kuala Lumpur Eats - Eye of the Beholder

2008-11-08T14:59:00.000+08:00

They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder... and how beautiful it is to behold - the infamous Ramly burger in Kuala Lumpur is probably as sloppy a burger as you're gonna get, but one bite into this burger with the beef patty (or so we're told) wrapped in an omelette - all fried in margarine and you'll be smitten.

Juicy, dripping in condiments (chilli sauce, mayonnaise and Lea & Perrins) and unashamedly bad for you - the Ramly burger really drives home the point that love is not only beautiful - it is also very blind.

Look out for these incredible mobile burger stands outside 7 eleven stores all over the city. We tasted the A&Z Ramly burger and our burger chef was kind enough to give us an extra portion of cheese in the above photo.

Kuala Lumpur Eats - Tasting History

2008-11-05T17:01:00.000+08:00

Yut Kee, a Hainanese family coffeeshop first started in the 1920s and handed down the generations (in fact - the current owner bears a striking resemblance to his father pictured above). Choose from a wide range of cooked dishes or simply chill out over a traditonal coffee with charcoal toasted bread served with home made kaya.

I have a thing for Hainanese coffeeshops - the nostalgia, history, marble table tops, wooden chairs, retro tiles... everything about these establishments gives you a sense of calm. The fact that they have stood the test of time and have served up caffeine and sustenance to generations before me is very humbling because you realise that more than just a cup of coffee with toast... you're tasting history.

Yut Kee
35 Jalan Dang Wangi
Kuala Lumpur

(closed on Mondays)

Kuala Lumpur Eats - Hajime

2008-11-04T00:17:00.000+08:00

Hajime Japanese Restaurant off Jalan Tun Razak in Kuala Lumpur is a beautiful restaurant set in a bungalow - projecting a sea of calm the moment you step into its compounds. The food here is mostly izakaya style - Japanese tapas... some old favourites (think sashimi and tempura) and some with subtle twists (think wagyu fillet with grated fresh wasabi).

Everything here is done well, beautifully presented and the service personable. Food here is on the pricier side but you do pay for the quality and freshness of the ingredients which are perfectly cooked (or sliced in the case of the sashimi).

All in all, Hajime offers a feast for the tastebuds as well as the senses with the presentation of its dishes and its ambience. Worth a visit.

Kuala Lumpur Eats - Crunchtime!

2008-11-02T16:09:00.000+08:00

There are two types of people in this world - those who love crunchy food - and those who lie. Wong Mei Kei just off Jalan Pudu in Kuala Lumpur caters for both parties by serving some of the best Cantonese roast pork I've ever tasted.

Delightfully crispy skin with melt in your mouth pork with just a thin layer of fat (sinful but oh so good)... the crunch with each bite is so addictive you almost need a timeout to stop eating. So whichever camp you belong to, drop by this highly acclaimed establishment and satisfy everybody's craving... for a little bit of crunchtime.

Kuala Lumpur Eats - A Wok & a Smile

2008-11-02T10:07:00.000+08:00

Eating in a foreign city can be intimidating and confusing - is the food going to be good? Am I going to be disappointed? Will I get the runs from eating at this joint? But sometimes... you just know its going to be good.

This was the case with Shun Kei - a little hawker stall off Jalan Negasari. I stumbled upon this almost nondescript eatery because I noticed the chef owner who just sat with almost zen like calm next to his wok - with a smile. The humidity and sweltering Malaysian heat was almost unbearable but this beaming elderly man seemed to be completely comfortable with where he was - right in that moment.

I was compelled to order a plate of his char kway teow - just because I wanted some of what he had. And was I rewarded for letting him take my order of faith. The rice and egg noodles were perfectly charred with unmistakeable "wok hei". The simple ingredients of egg, fish cake, shrimp, beansprouts and green vegetables cooked just right - and the sambal chilli that was added - simply fantastic. You get a slight numbing sensation in your lips after your first bite that doesn't linger - just the right amount of heat that brings everything in this simple dish together.

I loved this plate of char kway teow - and I really enjoyed watching the old man prepare it. He was full of smiles and you can actually taste the joy in his cooking. Perhaps it was the pleasure of finding a great meal in the most unexpected of places - but I was suddenly completely content with where I was... right in that moment.

Kuala Lumpur Eats - Bovine Bites

2008-10-30T18:19:00.000+08:00

Just returned from a couple of days in Kuala Lumpur, during which I overindulged, overate and had an overall great time catching up with old friends.

Ngau Kee Beef Noodles in Jalan Tengkat Tong Shin is a well known establishment that serves up its simple but very tasty fare - beef noodles. Choose from a wide array of beef cuts (tripe, brisket, tendon, meatballs) in a very tasty clear beef broth (that the owner constantly tastes throughout the day to ensure consistency) to go with al dente thin egg noodles topped with an addictive meat sauce. This isn't fancy - but it definitely hits the spot as far as bovine bites go.

A toast to my father

2008-10-25T19:19:00.000+08:00

$4,600. That’s how much was offered for my dad’s confusing collection of liquor since the 1980s. Not being a drinker himself, he was nevertheless showered with gifts from friends and business associates who thought it was the right gift to give. But these bottles, which consisted of cognac, rare whiskey and other hard liquor that have names I can only pretend to pronounce, have always been scattered in the bar area in our apartment like white elephants - grazing on our helplessness at what to do with them.

But the time had come – since dad’s passing and our recent decision to move to a new apartment at the end of the year, we started thinking of ways to hush this herd of beverages to new pastures. But of course, not knowing a thing about prices for liquor (or white elephants for that matter), we scoured the papers for interested buyers that might find them a new home. And so, one by one, the potential buyers came into the wilderness - patting, inspecting and scrutinising every detail on these placid creatures. We discovered that some of these were gems – you could tell from the way they were handled - accompanied by common pauses and clearing of throats. Others turned out to be worthless – these were often tossed casually aside without a second glance. I realised that we never once looked at the collection as individuals, each with their own unique value and story.

Then came the bidding. Prices ranged quite dramatically and proved that one man’s treasure may not necessarily be viewed (or priced) as another’s. We were offended at some of the offers - almost as if they had insulted what we had unconsciously watched over as part of the family for so many years.

And so – we settled on the highest bidder. As the thick wad of cash was handed over… I couldn’t help but feel a little saddened at the crates of bottles being carted out of our apartment. Afterall, these bottles, no matter how seemingly pointless, had been with us since we were kids and represented a small part of my dad.

The day after the exodus of the white elephants, mum and I decided it was best that we donate the proceeds from their exit to a worthwhile cause. Whilst it was tempting to go out and splurge it on new designer furniture for the new apartment, we decided that this was the right thing to do. After all... its comforting to know that just like my dad, the bottles have gone to a better place... and left the world a better place than when they first arrived.

South Korea Part 2: Seoul Searching

2008-10-23T21:13:00.000+08:00

Seoul intrigues me. The capital of South Korea is a constantly a case of extremes... tradition and fierce patriotism trying to remain relevant in a modern society thriving on capitalism and a fascination for the West. An urban sprawl of skyscrapers sprouting amongst the fertile crop of century old buildings. Impossibly expensive high end shopping proving just as popular as underground markets selling knock offs of their counterparts. And so it is with the food.

During my two days there - I was able to sample the most amazing and affordable street food which koreans simply adore - dok bokki (spicy korean rice cakes) and odeng (korean fish cakes) were just some examples of the widely available morsels, particularly at nightfall when the streets really come alive. We also had bi bim bap - probably the most popular korean dish outside of korea. But the mixed rice in a sizzling earthenware pot with the most colourful of vegetables topped with a raw egg was unlike any that I've tasted prior to this visit. The delicate balance and unique taste and textures of the assortment of vegetables and kim chee are quite a contrast to the often uniform, sweet tasting versions that you get outside of Korea.

On the other extreme, we also had the pleasure of the most decadent (and expensive of meals), courtesy of our extremely generous hosts. This was a once in a lifetime experience - a 10 course meal of the finest seafood you'll probably be able to get (some say even better) outside of Japan. From the sweetest lobster sashimi, to US$10 a serve of ottoro maki sushi. Run by an ex-trawler (pictured above) who is infectiously passionate about his craft, we are patiently told about how to appreciate each dish and its origins. The climax of the meal however was a sight to behold - the most incredibly marbled sashimi platter of the best tuna you will probably ever taste. Arranged in sections on the platter to represent the various parts of the fish, each mouthful was just pure bliss with the delightfully oily fish melting in your mouth with a touch of freshly grated wasabi root. Awesome.

And so - my two days in Seoul was without a doubt a sensory overload - the constant rush of extremes in this intriguing city was in itself a direct contrast to the quiet and simple experience in Jeju-do just 48 hours before... but that is exactly what makes South Korea an unforgettable destination.